I had mixed feelings about Mongolia (probably entirely due to being sick during my time there) so I was very excited to cross the border into Russia. But I wasn’t prepared for quite how giddy finally being in Russia would make me. I couldn’t stop smiling, and already by my second day in Russia I was dreading the day my month-long visa would expire.
The last time I was so excited to arrive in a new country was when I went to Iran, but that was a trip I had been dreaming about for a few years, not over a decade.
It’s always seemed crazy to me that Russia is such an enormous country, but apart from its strong presence in my history and literature textbooks growing up and now in news reports, Russia has always seemed strangely absent from most of contemporary western pop culture.
And then I went to university and like probably every philosophy major ever I fell hard for Dostoevsky, so I just had to study Russian, even though I would surely never use it in the real world.
Until now, whoop whoop!
Actually, that’s not true at all. In the past few years Russian has been loads more useful than other languages I’ve studied (I’m looking at you, Tibetan). That’s of course partly because my recent travels have taken me to a lot of former Soviet countries, but I also found myself using it in Israel, Egypt, and even Greece! So tell your kids, people, forget French and Spanish, go study Russian!
That statement is totally going to get my blog flagged by the U.S. government, ugh. (As if all my posts on Iran haven’t blacklisted me already.)
Anyway, I’m rambling, probably because Dan and I are sitting in a Siberian train station right now waiting for our train, which won’t arrive for a few hours even though it’s already past my bedtime, bah. So of course I’m blogging, while Dan is diligently practicing his Norwegian verb conjugations (in preparation for our move to Norway this summer!).
Ulan Ude was our first stop in Russia, though sadly we only stayed one night there. I say sadly, because when the directions to our hostel led us to a square with a giant Lenin’s head (the biggest in the world!) and illuminated ice sculptures and ice slides I realized we had stumbled on a very special place.
We didn’t have time to test out the slides for ourselves – plus I may have been a bit intimidated by the locals who could slide down while standing upright – but we did pause to take some photos!
Like many of the cities on our Trans-Siberian itinerary, Ulan Ude was closed to foreigners during Soviet times, reopening in 1991. While it’s described as one of Russia’s most “Asian-like” cities, I was immediately enchanted by the city’s very European-feeling architecture. I guess after so long in Asia I’m a little starved for anything remotely European.
After too short a stay in Ulan Ude, we caught the train to Irkutsk. We had decided to spend a night in Ulan Ude and get the day train to Irkutsk instead of going overnight straight from the border because most of the ride goes along Lake Baikal. So of course we wanted to do the journey in daylight, because LAKE BAIKAL!
At least 2/3 of our meals in Russia have consisted of bread, sausage and cheese and I’m still not sick of it.
Before exploring lake Baikal in person we had decided to spend a night in Irkutsk, so after a couple of hours I watched Baikal disappear behind us.
Dan had just finished reading The Great Railway Bazaar (in a similar cliché I was reading Doctor Zhivago) and warned me that Paul Theroux describes Irkutsk with its floodlit factory chimneys as having a similar appearance to a concentration camp. Now normally I would dismiss anyone who describes Tehran as “a place of no antiquity and little interest” as an old grump, but in this case he might not have been wholly wrong. Entering Irkutsk was a little… gray.
Luckily the next day would take us to a beautiful town on the coast of Lake Baikal. Stay tuned for tons of photos of one of the most stunning places in the world! Read about our time on Lake Baikal here
Where to Stay in Ulan Ude
In Ulan Ude we stayed at Traveler’s House Hostel, which was just a few minutes’ walk from the train station. The rooms were nice and there was a great hostel vibe here – we met a lot of cool travelers. Check current rates and availability here
My friends recently did this same trip on a bigger budget, so if you’d rather stay in a hotel I can also recommend staying at the Hotel Baikal Plaza, which is right on the Central Square and has a lovely old Russian feel (and apparently the restaurant is really good!). Check current rates and availability here
Where to Stay in Irkutsk
In Irkutsk we stayed at Rolling Stones Hostel, which is in a good location and has nice clean rooms, but the best part was definitely the guys who run it. They were so nice and enthusiastic and gave us lots of helpful advice for our trip to Baikal as well. Check current rates and availability here
And if you’d rather stay at a hotel, my friends recommend staying at the Boutique Hotel Marussia, which they said was the prettiest hotel they stayed at in Russia. It’s in an old wooden house in the center of town, with beautiful decor and a delicious breakfast. Check current rates and availability here
Sam says
Six years ago, I travelled on the Trans-Siberian railway from Beijing to Moscow, but unlike you, I didn’t stop off anywhere along the way. Passing Lake Baikal was definitely a highlight of the trip, nonetheless, and even though it was April when I did the journey, it was still frozen over just like in your pictures!
Silvia says
A local told me that sometimes the lake is frozen until June! Next time you will definitely have to stop off at Lake Baikal 🙂
Miriam of Adventurous Miriam says
I’m totally with you on learning Russian. Although I eventually forgot it, it was the first language I learned when I was eight. I’m looking forward to seeing more photos from Russia! Have fun.
Silvia says
That’s crazy that you learned Russian so young! In America schools don’t offer it until university level, and then usually it’s just people who love Russian literature or who want to be diplomats taking it, haha.
Martina says
Ohhh your pictures are making me long to be back in Russia!! Every one of them I’m going, I’ve been there! I saw that! Except the ice sculptures, they had melted by April. But I saw the head! Even your shots from the train – the mug you borrowed from the provodnitsa is the same as the ones we were give. 🙂 The Trans-Iberian is the best. I can’t wait to see your Listvyanka photos!
Silvia says
Yay, I love reading posts about places I’ve been as well – glad you’re enjoying reminiscing 🙂
Justine says
I’m giddy just reading this! Russia is one of those countries I’ve always fantasized about visiting. And as a lit major, I’m right there with you and the whole falling for Dostoevsky thing. Russian Literature was one of my all-time favorite classes in college. Although I didn’t go so far as to learn Russian 😉 Ah, I’m thrilled for you that you’re finally there Silvia 🙂
Silvia says
If you loved Russian literature then you HAVE to come to Russia! Usually places I fantasize about like this don’t really live up to expectations, but here I just can’t get over how RUSSIAN everything is! Haha.
Vanessa @ The Travelling Colognian says
I love the photo of Lake Baikal and I am really looking forward to read more about your time there. The pictures of the ice slides and sculptures are also beautiful. It is such a shame that you could only spend one night in Ulan Ude. I can imagine that speaking russian is very useful when travelling, especially when exploring the central asian and eurasian countries. As foreign languages I learned English, French, Italian and Spanish and a few years ago I considered learning portuguese. Now I am a lot more into taking mandarin classes because IMO besides English and Spanish, Chinese and Russian are a lot more important than other languages.
Silvia says
Oh how I wish I had learned Chinese instead of Japanese! Arabic would also be a great one to learn. I really wish I never had to work and could just study languages for a living 🙂 Though then again, I always quit once the grammar gets too hard, so maybe I would be bad at that.
Polly says
How exciting! When we go back to Russia in the next year or so I’m trying really hard to convince my husband to do the Trans-Siberian (the idea of doing it for fun is pretty foreign to Russians XD). I’ll definitely be showing him your photos.
Also, I got paid by the government to go to Russia and study the language so maybe they’ll flag you and offer you some dengi for your studies!
Silvia says
Haha we’ve definitely gotten a lot of questions from Russians on the trains, especially as we’re traveling on the cheapest local trains, not the actual Trans-Siberian train. Everyone wants to know what on earth we’re doing, and why we wanted to come to Russia in the winter!
And I totally forgot about all the emails I would get from the State Department after I started studying Russian! I was bummed never to receive my CIA recruitment letter though…
becky hutner says
I have major Eastern Europe envy right now!! I wish to be there at once! Err…maybe not as in RIGHT now. Little cold for me, no offense. But extremely soon! The motherland is calling my name.
Silvia says
Everyone keeps saying I need to return in the summer sooo summer blogger expedition through Russia soon?!
becky hutner says
That would be amazing!! Esp. since you speak Russian lol. Hey before I forget I have a short film for you if you haven’t seen it already. It’s by a Norwegian animator & was nominated for an Oscar this year. “Me & My Moulton.” AMAZING. You can watch it here:
http://meandmymoulton.com
Silvia says
Ooh thanks for the tip! I’m so out of the loop now that I had never heard of it – definitely will watch it now though 🙂
Jenia says
Hey there! How exciting – Russia is going to be amazing, so pretty in the snow. (and, as an aside, you are getting such a great deal right now because of the ruble slide!) Are you going to Olkhon? If you are, you must stop by at Baikalsky plyos (http://www.visitbaikal.ru/) they have these amazing Siberian huskies that will take you dog sledding. Cheers and enjoy!
Silvia says
Thanks for the tips! Actually I’m in Kazan now, but next time I go to Lake Baikal I will have to try the sledding 🙂
Rebekah says
I sort of have an urge to ditch my travel plans and just follow yours. Russia seems fascinating and I agree it seems to be strangely absent from contemporary culture. Are you on the Tran Siberian?
Silvia says
I’m (sort of) following the Trans Siberian route, but taking local trains instead because they’re way cheaper. Right now is definitely the time to go as the weak ruble means that everything is half price!
Sabina // Sabina Meets World says
You have no idea how jealous I am! The Trans-Siberian has been on my bucket list for a long time. I should probably learn at least a little Russian before embarking on the trip though.
Silvia says
Knowing some Russian has been SO helpful – but learning enough shouldn’t be too hard. Definitely worth it 😉
Olya says
These pictures touched my heart and made me miss my home country I was born in Irkutsk and adopted at 9 living in the United States
Silvia says
Aww that makes me so happy!
Liza @ Tripsget says
Such a wonderful post! Seems you traveled to way more places in Russia than me (and I am from Russia, shame on me!) haha
Susanne says
I left Ulaanbaatar on Jan.15th, 2016 by train to Ulan-Ude. It was an unusual train trip I thought. I stayed a week in Ulan-Ude in a newer hostel up a hill from the train station, was only traveler in entire place~super nice. Took a couple amazing day tours from the city to several Datsans. Took a van from Ulan-Ude to Irkutsk where I spent 3 more weeks also traveling to Lake Baikal during my stay. I knew my 30 day visa would expire before getting to Moscow, Saint Petersburg so some locals suggested going to Astana Kazakhstan (spent 3 weeks) which was amazing also. Took the Trans-Siberian to Omst Russia where I flew to Astana. I had multiple entries on my Russian visa so flew from Astana to Moscow where I had another 30 days in Russia. Spent those 30 days in Moscow & Saint Petersburg in cheap hostels. At this point I had been traveling 8 months and was tired so sadly skipped the Baltics, flew to Budapest another 3 weeks before a very expensive week in Iceland ending in Washington DC -Richmond, home. No room here to share the highlights. Trip started Richmond, Amtrak to Washington DC, flew to LAX to Taipei, South Korea, North Korea (only a couple of hours), Vietnam, Thailand, Hong Kong, Macau, China(60 days), Mongolia (loved so much) on to Russia…. Slightly over 9 months total as a single late 50’s female. Love traveling.. Antarctica, South America were planned for December 2018, delayed to 2020, delayed until???