• Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to content
  • Skip to primary sidebar
  • Skip to footer
  • HOME
  • ABOUT ∨
    • About Me
    • FAQ
    • Work with Me
  • Destinations
  • Recipes
  • THINGS I ❤
  • Blogging
  • CONTACT
  • Nav Social Menu

    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • Pinterest
    • Twitter
    • YouTube

Heart My Backpack uses affiliate links, which means that if you make a purchase through my links, I may earn an affiliate commission.

/ blog / Getting Off the Beaten Path in Isaan, Thailand

Getting Off the Beaten Path in Isaan, Thailand

August 12, 2014 by Silvia 34 Comments

115 shares
  • Share
  • Tweet
  • Email

off the beaten path travel backpacking Isaan Thailand

I know what you must be thinking: “Off the beaten path in Thailand? Is that even possible?”

True, Thailand is the most popular tourist destination in Southeast Asia, and most of the time travelers will find themselves surrounded by plenty of other foreign faces. But there is at least one last special place in northeastern Thailand that still remains nearly tourist-free: Isaan.

Okay, so it might be unpopular with vacationers because most guidebooks describe Isaan (or Isan) as “flat, boring landscape filled with endless rice paddies,” but after a week traveling through Isaan I would beg to differ!

Isaan offers tourists beautiful views of Laos out over the Mekong, authentically Thai cities that feel a bit like traveling back in time, some seriously delicious food, and extraordinarily friendly locals!

After wandering through Nong Khai’s bizarre statue park, Dan and I rented a motorbike to explore some neighboring towns perched along the Mekong river.

Sangkhom

This small town is 50 kilometers from Nong Khai and while at first glance it didn’t seem particularly special, once I realized that all of the restaurants and guest houses were set with beautiful views of the Mekong I was hooked. Dan and I spent two nights at Buoy Guest House, and oh my goodness, this guest house alone warrants a trip to Isaan!

After crossing a precarious looking bridge we stepped onto a grassy cliff dotted with the prettiest little bungalows I ever did see. And then a huge bright blue butterfly flew by. Yup, I had landed in a Dr. Seuss book.Buoy guest house sangkhom nong khai thailand backpackingBuoy guest house sangkhom nong khai thailand backpacking

Our bungalow even had a hammock – perfect for some riverside blogging!Buoy guest house sangkhom nong khai thailand backpackingThough apparently I still need to work on my hammock-mounting skills. Am I the only one always managing to whip myself over onto the ground every time I try to get into one? You’d think after two years in Southeast Asia I’d have gotten the hang of it…

Buoy guest house sangkhom nong khai thailand backpacking

Someone even managed to wake up to watch the sunrise over Laos (hint: it wasn’t me).sunrise mekong river thailand laos backpacking travel sunrise mekong river thailand laos backpacking travel

But my favorite part about the bungalow was the mosquito net!

Uh, let me explain.

Firstly, all the creatures loudly scampering about in the middle of the night made me oh so grateful to be safely tucked into a mosquito net. But even better, at night a bright light shining outside squeezed through the tiny holes in our hut’s woven bamboo walls to project stars of light onto the net. It was like sleeping in a planetarium! I wish I could have photographed it.

 

Than Thip Waterfall

The 13 kilometer drive along the Mekong to Than Thip waterfall was beautiful, but also left us pretty sweaty, thanks to a very hot and humid wet season going on in Thailand right now. It was the perfect time for a dip in Than Thip’s chilly waters!than thip waterfall mekong river thailand laos sangkhom nong khai

 

Pak Chom

From Than Thip waterfall we drove another 50 kilometers to Pak Chom, and oh what a pretty drive it was!

sunset mekong thailand backpacking travel mekong river thailand laos sangkhom nong khai biking mekong river thailand laos sangkhom nong khai sunset mekong thailand backpacking travel mekong river thailand laos sangkhom nong khai mekong river thailand laos sangkhom nong khai

We then returned to Nong Khai to catch a train to Nakhon Ratchasima.

 

Nakhon Ratchasima

Nakhom Ratchasima, or Khorat, was a strange city to visit, mostly because it felt just like Chiang Mai, except without the tourists and brand new sparkling malls. Seriously, just like Chiang Mai. Its old city is the same size as Chiang Mai’s and is also surrounded by a moat.

We spent two days in Nakhom Ratchasima, Isaan’s second largest city, mostly just wandering through its markets in search of delicious food (which we found!), watching locals nudge each other and excitedly whisper farang (foreigner) to each other as we walked past.

Nakhon Ratchasima Korat travel IsaanNakhon Ratchasima Korat travel Nakhon Ratchasima Korat travelNakhon Ratchasima Korat travel

 

Ubon Ratchathani

After a day exploring the city, Dan announced that if he were planning to stay in Thailand next year, he would want to live in Ubon Ratchathani.

The locals were (again) super friendly and seemed happy to see some foreigners, the food markets could give Chiang Mai’s a serious run for their money, and the many quirky riverside bars would make the perfect place to unwind after a hard day teaching English to Thai schoolchildren (or whatever else an expat would do in Ubon Ratchathani).

Isaan food Thailand IMG_5091 Isaan food Thailand

 

To travel along the Mekong, we rented a motorbike in Nong Khai for 250 baht ($8) a day.

In Sangkhom we stayed at Buoy Guesthouse in a riverside bungalow. Check current prices for Buoy Guesthouse

We took the train from Nong Khai to Nakhon Ratchasima, which took about seven hours and cost 60 baht ($2) each.

The train to from Nakhon Ratchasima to Ubon Ratchatani was 57 ($2) baht each and took about six hours.

 

 

Related Posts

  • new slains castle aberdeenshire scotlandHow to Spend Three Perfect Days in Aberdeenshire
  • hardangerfjord Norway in MayThe Three Absolute Best Day Trips from Bergen
  • Budapest, Hungary48 Hours in Budapest
  • Should You Travel to Greenland?
115 shares
  • Share
  • Tweet
  • Email

Filed Under: blog, Thailand

Previous Post: « Searching For Komodo Dragons in Indonesia
Next Post: Oh You Pretty Places »

Reader Interactions

GET UPDATES!

Subscribe to my newsletter for exclusive updates and stories from my world travels and life in Norway!

Comments

  1. Lina says

    August 12, 2014 at 11:43 pm

    The bungalow looks AMAZING! Totally like something from Dr. Seuss 🙂

    Reply
    • Silvia says

      August 13, 2014 at 12:19 am

      Haha it really was!

      Reply
  2. Steph (@ 20 Years Hence) says

    August 13, 2014 at 12:17 am

    Gorgeous photos that definitely give Isan its due! I have to admit, my favourite places in Thailand tend to be the random little towns and villages that most other travelers pass over—not only do they tend to be pretty, but they often have the BEST food and the locals are so friendly and not fatigued by tourists. We didn’t explore Isan nearly as much as we would have liked but I know that we’ll be back to Thailand again one day… Your bungalow in Sangkhom looks like absolute paradise!

    Reply
    • Silvia says

      August 13, 2014 at 12:25 pm

      It really was paradise! I’m glad you enjoyed Isaan as much as I did. I totally agree that Thailand’s best spots seem to be the random, sort of unpopular places.

      Reply
  3. kami says

    August 13, 2014 at 4:34 pm

    For some reason Thailand has never attracted me all that much but after reading this post and seeing these pics I’m really tempted to go as suddenly it seems like the place I’d enjoy 🙂

    Reply
    • Silvia says

      August 15, 2014 at 2:37 pm

      Yeah there are plenty of places in Thailand that feel a bit icky, but also so many wonderful ones! You should definitely go, and stop by Chiang Mai to visit me 🙂

      Reply
  4. emi says

    August 16, 2014 at 6:25 am

    looks GORGEOUS of course, and that food….!! adore your blog, so glad i just found it! we are kindred spirits! 🙂

    xo welltraveledwife.com

    Reply
    • Silvia says

      August 18, 2014 at 4:46 pm

      Aaah using the term “kindred spirits” definitely confirms that we must be!

      Reply
  5. Kate says

    August 17, 2014 at 1:03 pm

    Thanks for sharing something other than all the tourist spots! Thailand looks like a beautiful place! Looking forward to visiting one day.

    Raincheck for Timbuktu

    Reply
    • Silvia says

      August 18, 2014 at 4:47 pm

      Yeah, while the islands definitely deserve the hype, there’s so much more to Thailand than the typical tourist spots!

      Reply
  6. Sabina @GirlvsGlobe says

    August 19, 2014 at 6:53 pm

    I’m completely obsessed with Thailand & never heard of Isaan. Looks amazing, your pictures are incredible 🙂 Definitely a place I’d like to visit.

    Reply
    • Silvia says

      August 20, 2014 at 11:36 am

      I didn’t know anything about Isaan before I went, but it really blew my mind. It’s crazy that it’s not on more people’s radar!

      Reply
  7. Agness says

    August 20, 2014 at 11:35 pm

    This island is absolutely amazing. I love how green it is!! So in love with the local cuisine!

    Reply
    • Silvia says

      August 21, 2014 at 10:01 am

      It’s actually mainland Thailand, just along the Mekong River! And yeah, I was sooo in love with the food – maybe too much so, haha.

      Reply
  8. Chang Noi says

    August 21, 2014 at 6:47 am

    Getting of the beaten track is most time just a step away as 90% of the tourist stick to the beaten track. And although there is a a lot of tourism in Thailand, most of the tourist go to the same places. Let’s keep it that way …

    Reply
    • Silvia says

      August 21, 2014 at 9:59 am

      Haha it is tempting to keep Thailand’s hidden gems a secret! And so true that there are so many great things to discover right off the beaten path.

      Reply
  9. Victoria@ The British Berliner says

    August 21, 2014 at 9:27 am

    I love the bungalows. So sweet, and that pile of food. Yum! I’ve been to Thailand 3 times, there’s always something new around the corner. Happy Travelling!

    Reply
    • Silvia says

      August 21, 2014 at 10:03 am

      Seriously yum! I do love how there’s just so much to discover in Thailand.

      Reply
  10. Susan says

    September 9, 2014 at 8:49 pm

    Ah, these images are stunning! I haven’t been to Thailand yet, but it looks like a place I’d love to have in front of my lens.

    Reply
    • Silvia says

      September 10, 2014 at 7:03 pm

      I did my best to capture it, but I’m sure your photos would do it much more justice, Susan!

      Reply
  11. sheri says

    December 1, 2014 at 11:57 pm

    Great little post and photos. How did you feel about safety? I’m a female traveling solo. Was it easy to get around and did you feel safe? Also, can you get around without riding a motorbike? Thanks!

    Reply
  12. Ian says

    February 19, 2015 at 10:30 pm

    Curious about the water quality and availability in that region. Thanks.

    Reply
    • Silvia says

      February 24, 2015 at 9:18 pm

      We just either bought big bottles of water at local shops or filled up at water refill stations that are scattered around most Thai cities.

      Reply
  13. Paulo Silva says

    February 28, 2015 at 4:24 am

    Lovely lovely lovely. Planning a trip to Thailand with my wife. Isan is everything i like and want eheheheheh. Can you give me so e advices about how to go from Bangkok to Isan ?! What’s the best transportation ?!
    Once again … Loved your blog 😉

    Reply
    • Silvia says

      March 4, 2015 at 9:51 pm

      I took the train! Thai trains are really comfortable, and they go from Bangkok into Isaan (just Google the routes).

      Reply
  14. Aleks says

    October 20, 2015 at 1:12 pm

    Hi silvia, yr blog is great ! We are planing to go to osam this test and we really like The ByoB guest house . Would u be so kind to let me know how i Can make reservations because I can’t do it through trip advisor and they don’t have website 🙂 as well is there any particular guide that u would recommend for east part of Thailand ? We have 3 weeks for east including the islands on east too (ko Mao and ko Chang )
    Thank you for any advice in advance

    Reply
    • Silvia says

      October 22, 2015 at 5:00 pm

      Honestly, I would just show up without a reservation – I would be very surprised if it’s full! Sorry I don’t have any other information to give you, but I think it will be fine. Have a fun trip!

      Reply
  15. GABEL joseph says

    October 29, 2015 at 4:04 pm

    I there!
    Thanck for your article:) we are in isaan right now and love it so far. We can’t wait to try the bungalows!
    We were wondering where you stayed in ubon ratchathani? What would u suggest?
    Tks a lot

    Reply
    • Silvia says

      October 29, 2015 at 4:28 pm

      I actually wrote a whole post about Ubon Ratchathani, including where I stayed. You can find it here: http://www.heartmybackpack.com/thailand/off-the-path-ubon-ratchathani-isaan/. Have fun!

      Reply
  16. Tony C says

    August 18, 2016 at 8:25 am

    I am an 8-year resident of Khon Kaen, the heart of Isaan, and I ran across your web site while looking for landscape photography ideas. Looking at some of the comments, it seems that the Tourist Authority of Thailand is doing a good job of promoting the major spots (Bangkok, the Gulf and Andaman islands, and Chiang Mai) but are missing the “real Thailand.” There’s a lot to see here and it’s a great waypoint for a trip into Laos.

    If you haven’t been to Thailand before, spend a couple of days in Bangkok but then head up this way. You’ll be glad you did.

    Reply
  17. Korinna says

    September 3, 2016 at 12:51 am

    Hey Silvia, is it necessary to have an international driving license to rent those bikes?

    Reply
    • Silvia says

      September 8, 2016 at 7:37 pm

      I think it might technically be, but I was never checked while in Thailand, and they definitely won’t require it at the rental place.

      Reply
  18. john says

    September 10, 2016 at 6:27 pm

    wow guys glad to see some of you think outside the box issan is my second home just south of nong khai
    its where my son was born
    i intend to take 13 friends there next year before we go south to dive
    i will be retiring there in a few years time hopefully

    Reply
  19. Loteta says

    January 6, 2019 at 7:51 am

    Isaan is certainly not off the beaten path! It is famously or infamously know for Western sex tourism and sexpats. Most of the foreigners you will meet in Isaan are middle to old aged, fat, balled men, holding hands with very young Thai women and even girls!!!

    Reply

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Primary Sidebar

Silvia

Once a full-time nomad, I'm now trying to find a balance between continuing to explore off the beaten path places around the world while also building a home in Norway. Want to know more? Head to my About page!

FOLLOW ME

  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • Twitter
  • YouTube
northern lights norway guide northern norway guide

Footer

WELCOME

Once a full-time nomad, I'm now trying to find a balance between continuing to explore off the beaten path places around the world while also building a home in Norway. Want to know more? Head to my About page!

  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • Twitter
  • YouTube

COME AND GET IT!

Subscribe to my newsletter for exclusive updates and stories from my world travels and life in Norway:

© Copyright 2014 - 2025 Silvia Lawrence · All Rights Reserved ·

This blog uses affiliate links and cookies

TERMS AND CONDITIONS

PRIVACY POLICY