The contrast between Iran and Armenia is huge, which made crossing the border between the two countries a pretty bizarre experience. One is an Islamic country that bans alcohol, and the other proudly boasts being the world’s first Christian nation and making, according to locals, the world’s best brandy.
On the Iranian side of the border the guards questioned me about my Norwegian passport being issued in New York (uh… I was on holiday in the U.S.?) and then threatened to detain me because oops, my visa to Iran had technically expired two and a half hours before I made it to the border.
Hot tip: if you ever find yourself in trouble with Iranian border guards, summon the queasiness you had been feeling from the bus ride and puke in their waste bin. They will kindly offer you some tea and then practically shove you across the border for Armenia to deal with.
Once the blonde immigration officer stamped me into Armenia I shed my headscarf and was embraced by one of my Iranian bus mates.
“We’re in Armenia, time to party!”
Were these the same guys who had shyly offered me cucumbers while I was battling motion sickness on the bus from Tehran? They were clearly headed to Yerevan for some serious New Year’s partying, and were very excited to be nearly there.
As for me, I was sad about leaving Iran, but also happy to be greeted by a group of taxi drivers in Russian. Finally, a language I understood!
I ended up spending one week in Yerevan, whose eclectic mix of European and Asian vibes pretty much made it my dream city. As Armenia is such a tiny country, the capital was also an ideal base from which to make day trips out into the countryside to see several of Armenia’s historic churches and monasteries.
Um, did you guys know that Armenia is home to some of the most impressive and beautiful churches and monasteries in the world? I guess it shouldn’t come as a surprise, as after all, Armenia became the world’s first Christian nation in 301 A.D. Armenia’s stunning mountains make for some dramatic backdrops to these old monasteries, too.
My favorite? Khor Virap, which is an easy day trip from Yerevan. Though Haghartsin Monastery in Dilijan makes for a close second.
Khor Virap
Things to do in Yerevan
Yerevan is small enough to easily wander around by foot, stopping for frequent breaks in any one of the city’s many, many cafés. Seriously, Megan Starr was not exaggerating when she wrote that Yerevan has the world’s best café culture – I was loving it in chilly spring, so I can’t imagine how amazing it is in the summertime!
But anyone who knows me knows that actually I almost always would rather it were winter. For my first few days in Yerevan the city was enjoying some nice warm, sunny spring days. It was nice.
But then it snowed, and Yerevan totally stole my heart. The city went from this:
To this!
Not only did the snow turn Yerevan into a winter wonderland (okay maybe most people weren’t as excited about that as I was), but it also offered the perfect opportunity for Armenian men to show off their chivalry.
I had already been impressed by how quick cars were to stop for pedestrians crossing the street, and now walking through the narrow shoveled pathways in the snow I was surprised to see every man I encountered practically leap into snowbanks to let me pass. The women weren’t as keen to step into the deep snow, and neither was I, so we would usually just cross really close to each other in a bit of an embrace. All in all the experience left me with even more affection for Armenians.
The bus from Tehran to Yerevan took about 22 hours and cost $50.
If you’re on a budget in Yerevan then definitely stay at Zebra Hostel, which is centrally located and run by a super friendly group of young Armenians. Check current prices for Grammy Hostel
Seeing Yerevan as part of a tour of Armenia (and Georgia!)
While I traveled through Armenia and Georgia independently, if you don’t speak any Russian, want something more organized, or would prefer traveling in a group a tour can be a really good option.
My friends recently did the Best of Georgia & Armenia 10-day G Adventures tour and it sounded amazing. I wish I had managed to see so much of both countries! They said that their group was really fun, and they certainly had a more relaxing time than I did having to organize everything myself.
Check the itinerary and current prices for the Best of Georgia & Armenia tour here
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David Parsian says
you are to be envied, have fun …
Silvia says
Thanks, I enjoyed Armenia immensely.
jennifer says
Oh how beautiful Yerevan looks in the snow.
I am sorry you got bus-sick but I guess it worked out well for you!
Silvia says
Yeah, it’s nice to know that even motion sickness can have a silver lining!
Corinne says
Yerevan is calling….I need to figure out when I can answer!
Silvia says
You really do! One week definitely left me wanting more of the place!
pirooz says
I am really glad that visited Iran.
Silvia says
Thanks, me too! It was such a great experience.
Antranik Miranjian says
Silvia,
Call me and let’s meet on Northern Street or at the Hanrabedootyan Hrabarag. My number is 091-233398.
Antranik
Silvia says
Hi Antranik, I’m actually blogging behind schedule, so I’m no longer in Armenia! I’m in Thailand now. Thanks for the offer though!
The Travel Sisters says
We complained about all the snow in our hometown this year but your photos make it look fun again:) Enjoyed reading your post!
Silvia says
Thanks, I enjoyed playing in the snow 🙂 It’s probably easier to enjoy when it’s some of the only snow I’ve seen all year though.
kami says
stunning pictures! I can’t wait to be back there this Sunday!!! I’m not surprised you loved Armenia and Yerevan, it’s a wonderful place! And the cafe culture there is just the best, can’t wait to waste my time in numerous cafes all over Yerevan – basically what I did the first time I went there;)
Megan says
OH MY GOSH!!!! SNOW!??!???!?! i was wearing tanktops last year there! Glad you had a good time though <3 <3
Victoria says
Armenia looks beautiful. Especially in the snow. ‘Love the photographs!
Alfred says
Hello!
I’m planning to take the bus from Tehran to Yerevan in August. Do you remember if it leaves every day and what hours? Did you buy the ticket in advance?
Silvia says
I’m pretty sure the buses leave everyday, and mine left around noon. I bought my ticket a few days in advance (at the bus station) as I was traveling during the New Year’s holiday period, so the bus was completely full. Sorry I can’t remember more details, but good luck with your trip – the drive up into Armenia is really beautiful!
emily says
We are absolutely going to remember the puke tip at some point on this trip!
Silvia says
Haha I hope it works as well for you as it did for me!
Gaz says
Glad you enjoyed Armenia. I’ve spent over a year there. Going back in September.
Silvia says
Wow, I’m jealous! Enjoy your time there!
Miro says
I am an Armenian who has been living in Iran and I took that bus route a lot of times. You are lucky you guys didn’t get stuck in the snow in the way. I was on my way back (it was mid-March, I guess) and we got stuck in snow and had to wait for 12 hours for the trucks to clean up.
Now that I have moved to Los Angeles area, I really miss that experience.
Silvia says
Oh wow, I guess we were really lucky not to get stuck in the snow then! I miss Iran and Armenia as well…
Patil says
Hi Silivia,
Loved reading your post, I got married at Haghartsin Monastery in Dilijan couple of years ago, so I’m glad you liked my country. I’m Armenian living in California, also a blogger. please check our my blog. http://goldensnowflake.com/
Silvia says
Oh wow, that must have been such a beautiful wedding!
Patil says
I’ll post pictures of the day soon, so you can check it out.
Lauren Bishop says
This story felt so refreshing to me. I liked your juxtaposition between Iran and Armenia and how you described the lovely local people you interacted with. It’s fun reading about a place that has had less coverage so the stories are new (to me).
Nazmi says
Hi Silvia, I’m planning to do the border crossing too.
Do you happen to remember which border you crossed from. Was it norduz?
Hope to hear from you, thanks!
Silvia says
I’m not sure which border it was, but I got the bus from Tabriz to Yerevan.
Lena says
The charming CIS (Commonwealth of Independent States aka post-USSR) countries are still on my list to visit. Somehow if you are from that region, for me that being Ukraine, you always put priorities somewhere else.
By the way, how come you know Russian, if I may ask?
Silvia says
I think I’ve loved every CIS country I’ve been to! I studied Russian for a few years in university because I love Russian literature. So my Russian is far from perfect, but I speak enough to get by and have conversations with people.
João Leitão says
This is a great story about your travel in the region – I love Iran and Armenia… Congratulations on your trips. Greetings from south Morocco!
Phuoc Huu Phan says
When was your trip in Iran and Armenia ? i like to see snow hihi, i will visit Iran , Georgia and Azerbaijan next month ( Jan.2017)
Silvia says
I think you should definitely see snow then!
Jack says
So beautiful and I am going there this April too. When you took bus from Tehran to Armenia, did you also directly headed to Yerevan or you can stop by in Khor Virap and stay there one night? I have only 2 or 3 days in Armenia but I’d love to explore more about the country. Thanks for sharing with the beautiful pictures.
Silvia says
I took the bus straight to Yerevan, but then I did a day trip out to Khor Virap with a taxi. You can read about it here: http://www.heartmybackpack.com/blog/etchmiadzin-and-khor-virap-monasteries/.
Jack says
Thank you a lot for such a prompt reply! Then I may do the same as you did. Great!
Best and Happy Chinese New Year!
Jack
Petr says
This is an amazing article! I’m going to Iran for the second time in a month and I was thinking about going to Armenia from there. Now I see I definitely should. Thanks!
Silvia says
You definitely should!!
Dave says
Khor Virap is beautiful and a bit creepy (the underground section).
Tatev monastery is one of my personal favorites. Yerevan is also expending. Check out the 2800 anniversary park and all the new stuff that’s been built. Nice mix of old and new.