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/ blog / Off the Path: Nagaland

Off the Path: Nagaland

October 30, 2015 by Silvia 37 Comments

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Have you ever traveled somewhere that you just can’t make your mind up about? For me that place is India.

I spent part of a semester there as a student, but only really saw Delhi and Dharamsala in the north. Some of my closest friends are from India and I love so much about the culture, but at the same time I can’t say exploring India further is at the very top of my bucket list.

I mean, it’s not at the bottom either. In fact, I had originally planned to return to Europe via India, Pakistan, and Central Asia, but I wasn’t home long enough last Christmas to apply for both visas, so I went through Mongolia and Russia instead. I was really sad to miss out on Pakistan and Central Asia, but India wasn’t as sad somehow. The idea of returning just… didn’t excite me so much.

That is, until a fellow Norwegian blogger contacted me and asked if I would be interested in a post about Nagaland. Christian reminded me that there is SO much more to India than the usual tourist trail.

A trip to Nagaland certainly isn’t for the faint of heart, but even if it’s too extreme for your tastes, there’s no denying that it sounds fascinating. Suddenly a trip to India sounds very enticing.

And with that, over to Christian:

The Country

India

The Place

Nagaland

Why You Need to Visit Nagaland

Nagaland is one of the last places in Asia that hasn’t adapted the modern western way of living – there’s no internet and no phone connection.

There are still tribes who are technically at war with each other, some of the tribes still have a king, and the locals still have to pay a local tax to the king, which normally consists of a dead animal.

But their culture is still disappearing fast, very fast. There are a lot of Christian missionaries in the area, so more then 80% of the population of Nagaland is now Baptist.

So if you are interested in experiencing a dying culture, you should visit Nagaland within the next few years.

nagaland tribes

What You Need to See in Nagaland

Nagaland is not about historical sights, everything is about their culture. And one of the very last areas to experience the culture is in the Konyak tribe’s area, and their main city of Longwa.

Longwa is located in the Burma border, and the King’s house – yes they do have a king – is located right on the border. 50% of his house is inside India, while the other 50% is inside Burma.

So you will constantly be crossing in and out of Burma illegally while staying there.  The King has complete power, 60 wives (!!!) and a few servants. You will have to present the King with a gift when you arrive in the village, preferably a bottle of whiskey or rum.

Nagaland tribes, India

How to Get to and around Nagaland

Getting around Nagaland is a proper nightmare. The roads are on my top 3 worst roads anywhere in the world.

There usually is one bus a day between destinations, and a few jeeps. And there’s absolutely no transportation on Sundays, or better said there’s nothing at all on Sundays – everything is shut down, so no shops or restaurants.

Where to Stay in Nagaland

There are very few places to stay in Nagaland. The few guesthouses that do exist don’t accept foreign tourists (a normal problem in Northeast India), even in the bigger towns. When visiting smaller towns like Longwa, home stays are the only option.

You just have to walk around and ask for a bed. When you do find a bed, don’t hesitate to take it! The chance of finding another one is very slim.

visiting Nagaland, India

How to Budget for Visiting Nagaland

Surprisingly, Nagaland is not a budget destination. I have visited most of the states in India, and Nagaland is not only by far the poorest i have visited/seen, but it’s also by far the most expensive. The prices are A LOT higher than the rest of India, even though the standard of food and accommodation is miles worse than in other states.

What to Eat in Nagaland

The Bhut Jolokia Chilli, also known as the ghost pepper, is from Nagaland. In 2007 it was named the world’s most spicy chilli by Guinness World Records.

So you can expect some EXTREMELY spicy food – watch out. I made that mistake.

There are no restaurants in the village of Longwa, so you will have to eat whatever your home stay host will prepare. I’m not a picky person, but the meal I got from my home stay was not good – I have no idea what I ate, but it was by far the toughest meat I have ever eaten!

travel Nagaland, India

 

Would you visit Nagaland?

About the author:

_MG_5146Christian is the man behind the travel blog Unusual Traveler, and “unusual” is the perfect way to describe his travels. Seriously, if you’re looking to get off the tourist trail you might as well copy and paste his destinations list onto your bucket list now.

Born and raised in Norway in 1988, Christian never had interests in school or study and was always the kid that had to push the limits to see how far he could go when he was young.

And that mentality has stuck with him now on his travels. He gets extremely bored staying at tourist places, and can instead be found exploring remote corners of the world. For Christian, staying at a tourist beach in Thailand is pure torture.

 

PIN IT!
A Guide to Visiting Nagaland, India

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Have a special place off the beaten path you’d like to share? From far off countries I can’t pronounce to hidden streets in Paris, I would love to hear about your secret finds. Email me at heartmybackpack@gmail.com with the destination and I’ll send you some questions to answer about it!

P.S. Happy Halloween Eve, you guys! I hope you have tons of fun this weekend, and don’t get too scared. Do you have any plans for Halloween?

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Comments

  1. Fernando says

    October 30, 2015 at 6:26 pm

    By the sounds of it, it doesn’t get much more off the beaten path than this.

    Very few accommodation options, high prices, hard to get around, no restaurants… sounds discouraging, but at the same time interesting and worth the effort.

    You don’t often read about places like this, so it’s quite refreshing to find this kind of content.

    Reply
    • Silvia says

      November 2, 2015 at 4:03 pm

      If you want to read about more truly off the beaten path places you should check out Christian’s blog – he’s been to some really interesting spots.

      Reply
  2. Joella says

    October 30, 2015 at 9:11 pm

    Wow- this place sounds interesting- definitely very different and of the beaten path! Thanks for sharing, Christian!

    Reply
    • Silvia says

      November 2, 2015 at 4:04 pm

      I’m totally jealous of Christian’s travels!

      Reply
  3. Vera says

    October 31, 2015 at 5:11 pm

    This sounds like such an interesting place to visit! I love that the King’s house is half in Burma – I guess that was on purpose? So strange. Thanks for introducing me to this place.

    Reply
    • Silvia says

      November 2, 2015 at 4:19 pm

      I was also surprised to read that!

      Reply
  4. Anca | Globaloud says

    November 3, 2015 at 6:57 pm

    60 wives? Bottle of whiskey and rum? This sounds more like a rock star rather than the King of tribe!

    Reply
    • Silvia says

      November 5, 2015 at 9:42 pm

      Right??? haha

      Reply
    • Deepak says

      January 5, 2016 at 5:57 am

      Haha i guess he is living life “KingSize”.

      Reply
  5. Gaby Risanto says

    March 7, 2016 at 8:22 pm

    Nagaland ghost pepper, must try that πŸ™‚ By the way, have you been to Ladakh, 30 minutes from Leh by car, extreme north of India, to discover this Nimmu Village, a great oasis in the desert, nearly unknown πŸ™‚ Will def check out Christian’s blog..Cheers!

    Reply
    • Silvia says

      March 16, 2016 at 2:22 pm

      I haven’t been to Ladakh, but some people in my study abroad class went and loved it!

      Reply
  6. Dilip Bhende says

    March 17, 2016 at 10:06 am

    My recent trip to Nagaland with Isha Tours, Mumbai was great. I was lucky to have seen(invited by the Governor) for the yearly Hornbill Festival. I have not seen anything as colorful as this friendly event. Normally this event takes place on 1st of December every year & I would say it is a must for ant traveller who is out there to discover. Kohima is a great small town. Full of colors. Locals are very helpful & the hotels are very good with excellent food.

    Reply
  7. nargis says

    September 4, 2017 at 7:52 am

    grate information thanks

    Reply
  8. Conan says

    September 17, 2017 at 5:41 am

    I don’t know when did you really went to Nagaland but you have a lot of misconception about Nagaland, 90% of ur writings is not true at all, full of negativity. Guys, Know about Nagaland in other blogs or Videos in Youtube or in books.
    This person don’t know anything about Nagaland.

    Reply
  9. Imli Imchen says

    September 17, 2017 at 7:57 pm

    I am from Nagaland and you are dame true.
    And yah! I using an wooden phone and an imaginary network πŸ˜‚ lol to that.

    Reply
  10. Ron says

    March 11, 2018 at 2:52 pm

    No internet? Prices higher than the rest of India? Paying tax to tribal chieftains? None of those things are true. I visit north-east India regularly and besides the lack of malls, the people are far more civilised than the rest of the country. I honestly don’t believe you even went to the place.

    Reply
  11. apoorv says

    March 24, 2018 at 4:10 pm

    Wow. Actually Nagaland is located on the peripheries of Indian Mainland. Yes it is a tribal and a hilly state. I loved your take on the valuable insights. It is very refreshing to see someone from a foreign land travel so far in a secluded place that is relatively far of from the Indian mainland. You should visit Goa, kerala, shimla, dharamshala, kulu manali, mysore, tea estates, ooti, pondicherry, Mumbai . Actually I would sum up my country as beautifully chaotic and diverse.

    Reply
  12. ayushveda says

    May 8, 2018 at 3:24 pm

    A great post about Nagaland and an informative travel guide.

    Reply
  13. Jamir says

    May 13, 2018 at 7:37 pm

    The place you visited is one of the most underdeveloped parts of Nagaland, though it has one of the richest cultures uninfluenced by the west. If you visit the bigger towns like Dimapur, Kohima and Mokokchung, you will find the accommodations and food easier to find and cheaper too. There is a handful of 3-star hotels as well. Further, with the promotion of tourism in our state, it has become easier for visitors to smoothly tour the state.
    Though what you wrote is true, it represents only some parts of Nagaland. πŸ™‚

    Reply
  14. Sudip Chhetri says

    June 7, 2018 at 2:51 pm

    Nagaland is known as the Land of Festivals. Each tribe celebrates its festivals during different months of the year.I find it very interesting.

    Reply
  15. Anubha says

    December 3, 2018 at 12:22 pm

    It breaks my heart when I read that India will not be in your bucket list. I can’t tell you what all your are missing if you are not travelling to India properly. Some places are so beautiful here. Every time I travel here in India, I am mesmerized.

    Reply
  16. Cosima says

    December 3, 2018 at 6:26 pm

    Hi Christian! Iβ€˜m a blond, young, German girl, very adventurous (sometimes a bit too much). Flying to Guwahati in two days and was planning to travel to Nagaland alone to visit tribes.
    How safe do you consider visiting those tribes by myself?
    How do you recommend getting around where there is no public transport?
    I would very much appreciate your advice.
    Thank you! Cosi

    Reply
    • Madhu says

      December 7, 2018 at 5:40 pm

      Hi, I am a girl from mainland India, traveling solo to Nagaland currently (Hornbill festival till 10th) and haven’t faced any problems as such. Yes, the road connectivity and public transportation aren’t so good but that’s where the thrill is. All the best πŸ™‚

      Reply
  17. Medo Zhasa says

    December 23, 2018 at 7:52 am

    I am from Nagaland and umm… no phone and Internet connection, exaggerate much? Anyone who wants to come visit Nagaland anytime soon, let me know. I’d be happy to show you around through the eyes of a modern Naga :).

    Leaving my email here just in case: medo.zhasa@gmail.com

    Reply
    • Ananya Kango says

      January 29, 2019 at 11:59 am

      Hi, I’m planning to visit some parts of Nagaland during my short stay in North East India. I’m particularly interested in visiting Dzukou Valley. Is it possible to hike the valley solo or would it be advisable to get a guide? Also, what are some nice villages around Kohima worth exploring within a short span of 2-3 days?

      Thanks!

      Reply
  18. Subramani says

    February 2, 2019 at 5:18 pm

    I am newbie to your site and already addicted to your posts! Sad to see that Christian missionaries have invaded the culture of Nagaland. Did you know of any online forums (apart from change.org) where you can lodge a protest against such activities?

    Reply
    • Malayali says

      April 3, 2019 at 8:00 pm

      Culture may change day by day.
      Don’t worry about it. We are also changing. I am not sure that old cultures are right. Then we have to accept Sati (really a suicide of a widow).

      Reply
    • NagaWoman says

      November 29, 2019 at 9:54 am

      I beg to differ with your views, Subramani. I am a pure Naga (nothing more, nothing less); and you know what, the arrival of Christianity to my Nagaland was/is the best thing to have happened to my people. Had it not been for Christianity, we would have decapitated ourselves to oblivion, or worse still, some other alien culture and belief system riddled with casteism and other-cultural-mores-I’d-rather-not-state-here would have degraded my land and people. Come to think of it, Nagaland is the safest place in India for women; it has one of the highest literacy rates; it is cleaner than most other Indian states; it doesn’t have a thriving community of beggars. This has been possible because of Christianity and education. As a different people (racially, linguistically, culturally), we would never have and would never assimilate with a people whose culture was based castes, untouchability, “Sati”, dowry, acid attacks, groping, open defecation, etc. In an article, a European lady attests no where in India has she felt safe as she feels in Nagaland; she lives in Nagaland. All thanks to Christianity. Naga people will forever be grateful to the British and Americans for saving us from the clutches of a degrading culture. Peace out!

      Reply
  19. Danica Watson says

    March 5, 2019 at 8:38 am

    Amazing shots.love to be there. thanks a lot for sharing.

    Reply
  20. Travel Guru says

    May 8, 2019 at 6:09 am

    Loved this post!
    Thanks for sharing such a useful Information

    Reply
  21. Davion Teresa says

    May 31, 2019 at 2:10 pm

    Nagaland is a really good place where we can roam around. I am planning to travel to Nagaland For this, in search of Nagaland info on Google and I found your blog. You have given very good information which is very useful for me. Thanks for such post and please keep it up.

    Reply
  22. Puja says

    June 28, 2019 at 8:07 am

    Good post and very useful for travellers.

    Reply
  23. My tribal adventures says

    August 1, 2019 at 8:33 am

    Wow! I thought I was reading about

    Indiana Jones exploring the jungles of mysterious Amazon forest!
    But alas it was all about my state NAGALAND
    Now I wonder where he went ? Is this blogger describing about this adventurous travel to Amazon or Nagaland? And speaking of food oh boy Nagaland food is popular all over the world asked any food famous food blogger or stars say ‘Gordon Ramsay’

    Reply
  24. Nandini Bose says

    January 22, 2020 at 11:38 pm

    You Should also visit the Sunderban National Park In West Bengal!

    Reply
  25. Debanshu says

    January 22, 2020 at 11:41 pm

    Entire North East Is Virgin And Unexplored! Hope some you came and visit us soon.

    Reply
  26. Bires says

    June 3, 2020 at 9:02 am

    Good article

    Reply
  27. Ravi Sankar dutta says

    August 4, 2020 at 7:01 pm

    Nagaland is destination like no other specially their culture. Tribal ways are deep rooted and even though modernity have changed the way of life, the locals relish their tradition. Unfortunately political disputes have not let tourism flourish over the years. But things are fast changing.

    Reply

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Once a full-time nomad, I'm now trying to find a balance between continuing to explore off the beaten path places around the world while also building a home in Norway. Want to know more? Head to my About page!

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