I’ve heard so many words used to describe Tehran – bustling, cosmopolitan, smoggy, traffic-clogged, dangerous – but after spending about a week in the city one word sums it up best for me: cool.
I’m not even sure what it was about Tehran, but looking around at the people, the buildings, even the boxy cars and motorbikes, everything had a cool edge – I almost felt like I had wandered onto the set of a hip 80s movie.
Of course a city that has been repeatedly wracked with turmoil, from the 1979 revolution to the violent student uprisings after the 2009 election, is going to be overflowing with character and substance. I wish that Tehran had had an easier history, but its troubled past (and present) does make it an incredibly interesting city to visit.
Visiting a place for the first time, my initial impressions are usually shaped just as much by the people whom I’m with as the city itself. Tehran was no exception.
On my third day in Tehran I met Mina, a 23 year-old student who contacted me through Couchsurfing (you can sign up here) to join her for lunch. She took me to a tiny basement restaurant that she said is popular with art students, and we chatted about our favorite Kafka stories, French music, clothing and boys.
From that point on my experience became one of Mina’s Tehran, and I couldn’t imagine a better guide to this fascinating city.
After lunch we visited the House of Artists together to wander through its art galleries, though eventually we decided to abandon culture in favor of something a little more tasty: coffee!
Mina has a serious weakness for coffee shops, and I think among Tehran’s students and intellectuals, she’s not a bit alone. Tehran’s coffe shops are popular hangouts where the city’s youth can escape the watchful eyes of their families for a quiet date or feel free to openly smoke cigarettes and discuss politics.
Mina explained that the best coffee shops are the ones that are slightly hidden from the street and dimly lit, with her favorites being Café Un and Café Lorca, which are both near Valiasr Square.
Of course as meeting points for Tehran’s intellectuals, students, and activists, these coffee shops haven’t escaped the notice of government authorities (in fact most are technically registered as “ice cream shops,” as coffee shops will be denied licenses!).
Mina lamented not being able to take me to Tehran’s best coffee shop, Café Prague, as it had to close down last year when the owners refused to set up security cameras and turn over all footage to the government.
Government closure of coffee shops has been a reoccurring event in Tehran since the revolution, when the government cracked down on coffee shops as showing “anti-Islamic morals” and “too much Western influence,” despite a coffeehouse culture in Iran dating back centuries.
On its last day in business, Café Prague bid farewell on their Facebook page saying,
“As much as it pains us and as much as we will miss our friends and all of you who stood by our side in the past four years, we take comfort in knowing that we at least didn’t let Big Brother’s glass eyes scan and record our every step, minute and memory from dawn till dusk.”
I didn’t have a chance to visit Café Prague while in Tehran, but I did take a look through this beautiful gallery of photos from its last night.
Or if you prefer, here are some poorly shot photos from Café Un and Café Lorca, which I took with my iPod because I was too shy to pull out my big tourist camera in such cool hangouts.
My stay in Tehran was far too short and left much of the city unexplored, but I did leave with an overwhelming crush on a city so full of life and passion.
Shopkeepers greeted me with warmth (if also a degree of surprise), and the discussions I had with people there were always filled with genuine interest and reflection. And spending as much time as I did with Mina in Tehran’s coffee shops left me with an impression of a city filled with deep meaning – histories to remember, questions to deliberate, hopes to safeguard, and futures to discover.
Next up: Mina and I take a weekend trip to Esfahan!
What to wear as a female traveler in Tehran
You do have to dress conservatively as a woman in Iran, but you can still wear colorful, pretty clothes! Just make sure that your tops and/or jackets that you wear outside hit around your mid-thigh and aren’t low cut. And a normal scarf will work fine for covering your head – use a lightweight one in the summer and heavier scarf in the winter (and if, like me, you struggle with keeping it on your head, use bobby pins!).
Here are some of my favorite appropriate things to wear in Iran:
Danielle says
I finally have internet again and should be working on my blog but instead I’m reading yours! Tehran looks really amazing, glad you are having such a good time!
Silvia says
Thanks, Danielle, now get started on that post I want to read about Kenya!!
niloufar says
AMAZING PICTURES
Ann says
That mountain shot is gorgeous… for some reason that’s not at all what I had in mind. Very cool!
Silvia says
Right?! I felt incredibly stupid on my first day when I was wandering around and looked up to see snowy mountains. I had no idea Tehran was at the base of a mountain range!
Houman says
The mountain is called Tochal. The summit is 3990 above sea level. This morning I saw people were still going up the lifts to ski. I think this slopes is the highest in the world at 3800 m. Thanks for the beautiful pictures.
Martina Donkers says
Me too! That was my exact thought when I saw that picture! And I felt a bity silly for that. But then I reminded myself that I don’t think I’ve actually seen pictures of Tehran before, so it’s probably ok not to know that, haha. Well I know now anyway.
And you’re right, Tehran just looks so cool! It reminds me a bit of St Petersburg, witht he tall graceful buildings, and almost Melbourne… almost. Might just be the coffee thing.
Martina 🙂
Silvia says
Ahh that makes me excited to go to St Petersburg!
Marliese says
Hi, but st. Petersburg is still very different, yet well worth to make the trip.
吴东明 says
Yeah,though i am a Asian,i also know less about Iran,just a litle from my level3 class. Your artical and pictures are beautiful,i am very admire you have a great experience.
Silvia says
I’m glad you could enjoy the article!
Corri says
I love your photos and comments. I am writing a memoir about living in Isfahan before and during the 79 revolution. In that time I also spent long stretches in Tehran. Your photos are wonderful to look at: it all has changed tremendously from what I remember! Enjoy your stay in Isfahan. I’m looking forward to reading your account….
Silvia says
Wow, I’m sure your memoir will make for a fascinating read! It’s interesting to hear that Tehran has changed so much – I wish I could have seen it before!
Rana says
This is the perfect real facing about Tehran and what u got and what i showed you… Hope all travellers to Iran could show any aspect of my country to the world! 🙂
Thank you so much my lovely friend Silvia. <3
Silvia says
Thank you sweet Ranaaaa!
Siavash says
The world is so fuckin small
sadegh says
barikalla
Stefania @The Italian Backpacker says
Fascinating. I never knew Tehran was like this, you’re opening windows to a new world for us!
Silvia says
Thanks, Stefania, that’s just what a blogger wants to hear! <3
Maria Alexandra @Travel the Middle East says
I already had a number of reasons I wanted to visit Iran… Although the capital wasn’t necessarily one of them. Now it surely is: your pictures are like nothing I expected Tehran to look like! wow! Plus bonus: looks like I would be able to blend in quite easily 🙂
-Maria Alexandra
Silvia says
Haha I wish I could have blended a little better! Seriously though, I wasn’t expecting to love it either, but Tehran ended up being my favorite place in Iran! It’s just such an interesting city.
Hayley says
What an interesting post. I have never really thought about visiting Tehran or Iran to be honest, but you are definitely moving it up my list. Thanks for the great information 🙂
Silvia says
That’s awesome, Hayley, I definitely think Iran deserves a spot on that list 🙂
Parisa says
Your posts remind me of home. I can’t wait to see your Marivan’s pics. I went there in 2006, just before I moved to US, it is breath-taking in May.
Silvia says
Marivan was breath-taking in March as well!! I will try to write my post about it soon 🙂
The Travel Sisters says
Your posts on Iran are very interesting. Have never considered visiting Iran but we might have to add it to our list!
Silvia says
You really should, traveling in Iran is such a special experience!
Timothy W Pawiro says
It is nice to read your story in Iran! Looking forward for your next blog post 🙂
Corinne says
Wow, Silvia. Thanks for stopping by my site. I’m so impressed that you’ve traveled to Tehran on your own. I love the fact that you were able to meet Rana and see and hear the city through her eyes. That is always the very best way. Kudos!
Silvia says
Thanks, Corinne, I think I was incredibly lucky to meet Rana and her sweet family!
Fariba says
I’m so glad that you had a nice experience in Tehran! I Wish more people get to see the beautiful side of Iran.
Silvia says
I agree, Fariba, I hope more people can visit and discover the beauty of the country!
laleh says
salam…I’m happy to read your words and see your pics about Tehran and Iran.
Ali B. says
My goddamn country is a shithole, especially Tehran. Ofcourse, visiting a shithole as a tourist can be fun!
Shahrokh says
Ali i am almost 40 years old and live in Tehran. many times i have decided to migrate and may be i do it. i guess i am older than you and i have born before Iran revolution, we can call it that GOOD days!. Yes, Iran cultural- economic condition has been worse comparing with 35 years ago but; we, i mean Iranian people , must stop nagging and begin the correction and improvement from themselves, Our mind can make our life condition the best or the worst!.
despite of many negative points, Iran still can be tolerable if we will.
if you compare the condition and freedom level of presently and 20 years ago youths you can see now adays youths has much more freedom comparing of that of the youths like me by continues resistance of Iranian people and specially young men and women.
Clare says
Having just visited Iran it’s wonderful to see how you’ve articulated my exact sentiments. Thank you! It’s a fascinating and beautiful country, and sometimes even a little bit magic.
Silvia says
Yes! I agree completely 🙂
Heather says
I don’t know what I expected Tehran to look like, but it definitely wasn’t this. The architecture and natural scenery are gorgeous! I’m also surprised by how hip the young people look. It’s a shame the politics there are so scary.
Silvia says
Yeah, it’s really interesting what different expectations people have of Iran. A lot of my friends were surprised there was snow there.
Ali says
I am happy you had a good time in Iran. You need to try not to look at the country through the eyes of others. You noticed a difference when you had a chance to look more closely (comparing what you heard when you were out of country with what you saw there). If you have a chance for another visit, try not to look at Iran through the eyses of people like Rana either. I am not saying she was not a good happennig for you. When I look at her pictures she reminds me of my sister. she has the same style as Rana. it is another interesting point where in the same family individuals have different life styles. What I am trying to say is that Iran is a diverse and vibrant country. Not just in terms of nature but in people too. If you had a chance to go to Mashhad which is known as a religeous city with its nice Bazar and beautiful green mountain ranges with the best Kababs you could ever imagine or you had the chance to see the prayer gathering in a local mosque in Tehran with people of all ages, then you could appreciate how a wide variety of people live peacefully understanding each other. no matter if they are going to a cafe in a hidden basement or they go openly to a mosque for prayer.
Silvia says
I agree with you, Ali, I only saw a very small part of a very diverse city, which is hard to avoid when traveling somewhere for the first time. Rana introduced me to her Tehran, which gave me a great appreciation for the city and made me want to return in the future and see other aspects of the place.
Maryam says
Hi,I am happy that you enjoy your trip.
I agree Ali, I hope that you can talk with different people in Iran and find different views to life.
I also suggest you to see Shiraz,It is one of the most beautiful city of Iran especially in April and May.
Ali says
I highly recommend to visit Shiraz in April and May. Shiraz was known to be the city of flowers, wine and love. Now you need to rethink about the part related to wine but flowers and love, are still there.
In these two months you don’t see the flowers but you can smell their scent in air at night, specially late at night, while you are walking through alleys or streets (not the main streets). I never felt any type of allergy but when I was a student there for the first 6 months I had cough. The doctors told my that is for the scent of flowers but for someone like me who had lived his whole life in Tehran, I found it difficult to believe. It seemed true though.
Don’t miss shiraz. that is a must.
Hosein Kafaii says
Would you be willing to travel to Tehran with me. I was born and raised in Tehran and dared to go there this summer after 27 years stay in Sweden, but felt completely alone there.
Minou says
Thanks Silvia for having shown and described images of Iran people outside don’t believe they exist.
Kaveh Mousavi says
As an Iranian living inside Tehran, these photos have a strange feeling for me. They are very beautiful photos, and they surprise me with a view of the city that is quaint, kind, and “cool”, as you mention it, which is very far from the way I experience this city.
Tehran is ultimately a traumatizing city for me, a city I can’t wait to leave one day – to me it’s in a perpetual hurry, angry, crowded, polluted, a source of constant headache. I find Tehran very beautiful in your photos, but not in my every day life.
I don’t know how to feel. I want to commend you, yet at the same time I feel that your eyes have missed the real truth about Tehran which is quite violent.
Silvia says
You’re right – I experienced a very specific side of Tehran, one appropriate for a 25 year old girl visiting the city as a tourist. Your difficult experience of Tehran is sadly one I think many people growing up in big cities feel, to varying degrees, and it’s not something tourists usually have to deal with.
So many foreigners seem obsessed with New York City, seeing it as a glitzy exciting city, while for many people living there it is a place of violence and hardship (though of course in different ways from Tehran). I think it’s the same for many of the world’s top cities – foreigners don’t always see their dark side.
But with Tehran, I think many foreigners only know its dark side – people warned me not to go, saying that it was too violent and dangerous. So in a blog post that I wrote primarily for friends and family back home (I had no idea so many Iranians would start to read it) I thought it was more important to focus on the positive sides of Tehran, to show them another image of the city than that usually projected by American media.
But I’m sorry that you feel that Tehran is traumatizing, and I hope that you can find peace somewhere in the future!
Kaveh Mousavi says
Thanks a lot for your reply, and thank you for your beautiful photos.
Ali says
I think Silvia explained the situation with big cities nicely. Tehran is not an exception. What I admire about People in Tehran or in general in Iran is that they are full of hope and life. They are lively and active in spite of all problems they are facing. The city has progressed a lot during past decades. I strongly believe and hope by opening our doors to outside world and people like Silvia and knowing each other better, we will have much more sunshine in our cities.
Tina says
Wow you got really lucky! You were in tehran while the air was clean! that’s not something we see often in our city!
Arman says
You have to take a visit on north (Caspian Sea-line), specially Guilan Province. The view, people and the food is fascinating.
Ali says
it’s definitely cool to see my city from your point of view,but i wondered why you didn’t visit modern parts of Tehran? which are located at the north of the city,Milad Tower as well.
Ali
Geography Student of Tehran University
Darioush says
Dear,
Im delighted to see an American young girl comes to my country and describes Iran as it is. I enjoyed your pictures and comments. I have an American friend to whom I told about Iran exactly what you have described here. I introduced him your page and hope his mind would be changed.
hamid says
Dear Silvia,
That was great !!. Really thanks for the graceful perspective you’d illustrated from my country.
Moeen says
Dear Silvia
Thanks for your nice blog. what is your camera brand and model you used in Tehran city’s photos?
Regards
HESAM says
The pics were great shots but it seems that you see the empty part of the glass right? Tehran is much better that you pictured!
Saeed says
I’m an Iranian and I just read about your trip to my city ( THR ) and country in a famous news website ! maybe you don’t know but this news ( about you ) is the hottest one today ! http://www.khabaronline.ir/detail/349275/society/tourism with more than 45K view ! It makes me happy although you’re one in million ! Because you made a maybe hard decision ! It was so cool to know your point of view about Iran . But there are points that I think you certainly got them . You came to THR in norooz holiday so the air was clear and the city was calm , and I think you didn’t see much important and beautiful places such as PASARGAD ( Pars Zone ) , Persian Golf Islands , Mashhad City , Beautiful Zone of north of Iran , natural places of Tehran suburbs & more . Thanks for your visit and helping to make a real picture of Iran & It’s culture as you really seen . Politics is nasty but humans are really as one ..
Alireza Luxe says
Hi Silvia ,
As an Iranian I thank you، To show a good image of the Iran.
I wish you success.
If you wanted to visit Iran again, I’d be delighted to welcome you.
Bye ، Hope to meet.
fateme says
Silvia, u should visited Shiraz!!
Shiraz is amazing, this is mixed of nature $ history.
I live in Tehran but I really love shiraz.
Shiraz is a piece of paradise.
I hope that you’ll come back Iran to visit Shiraz 🙂
best regards
hamid says
Dear Silvia,
That was great !!. Really thanks for the graceful perspective which you illustrated from my country.
Maryam says
Well, I guess to experience real “EXTREME “Tehran for one full day, the best thing is to start from north of Tehran which you’ll see lots or Porsche, Mercedes, BMW, Maserati which is hard to find in Beverly Hills! (I’m serious about this) and go slowly to the middle and south part of the city to find boxy cars!
I born and lived in Tehran for 22 years and left! the best way I can describe it is “EXTREME” …. and would be great if you have a chance to spend a party in north of tehran…..
Silvia says
That’s such a good point! I didn’t see much of northern Tehran, but I guess the contrast in areas is pretty extreme!
Reyhane says
Thanks for letting people know us about our everday life. It is what we Persians really need!!!
Silvia says
Yeah, it’s amazing how difficult it is for foreigners to see the real Iran!
Nima says
Thanks for such a great article. I was born and grew up in Tehran in 80s and haven’t visited back for last sixteen years. I’m sure you all understand why.
I’m glad you liked Tehran and maybe next time you’ll have a chance to visit rest of the country. I miss it everyday and every second of my life. Living with my childhood memories and appreciate I am part of it. London is home now to me and I love it with passion, I hope one day we will be all going back and enjoy our time without any political fear. I just wish if I could spend one more day in Iran but thats faith.
Next time you there, please say hi to my city for me and thank you for such a great blog, I’ll be all over it tonight when I have a chance to read 🙂
Happy Easter
Silvia says
Oh Nima, I wish that your dream for Iran could someday come true! It would be so nice if you could go back and visit. But I am glad that you also love your second home so much.
Katrinka says
Silvia, did you travel to Iran on an American passport? (and if so, HOW?? I’m dying to go. Tehran sounds very cool.)
Silvia says
Hi Katrinka, I actually traveled their on my Norwegian passport (I’m a dual citizen). The process is much easier for Norwegians – I wrote about it here: http://www.heartmybackpack.com/blog/getting-to-iran-via-oman-visa-on-arrival/ I hope you can still figure out a way to visit, though!
Shing says
Hi, I’ve just found your site through Stefania’s blog (The Italian Backpacker) and I’m fascinated by this post. You had me at Kafka.
I love the quote left by Café Prague, but it’s a shame that a place bringing joy to the community has little choice to close if it wants to keep its integrity and preserve its memories.
I would like to see ‘Mina’s Tehran’…
Silvia says
Café Prague’s story broke my heart a little, and then looking at the photos from its last night broke it all the way. It’s sad that the coffee shops in Tehran have to struggle so much, because they are such special places. I wish you could see Mina’s Tehran – I’m sure you would love it too, especially if you love Kafka 🙂
habi moha says
Best wishes for you from Iran.
<3
Just keep going the good work.
Silvia says
Thanks!
habi moha says
😀 <3
Silvia says
Thanks so much!!
Pari says
Hello Silvia. Welcome to Iran. As we say here “Safa avordi”.
Marjan says
Hi, I am an Iranian-American who was born and raised in Tehran. I really enjoyed reading your blog and introduced it to an American friend who was supposed to travel to Iran and had a lot of questions in mind . Seeing Iran through the lens and words of an American girl makes a difference from what I as an Iranian narrate about Iran. Thank you for being brave enough to experience the reality instead of believing in what media tries to make people believe.
Wish you have a wonderful trip around the world!
Josie says
I just discovered your blog through Pinterest, and I am so glad I did! As an American girl I have been made to fear Iraq and Iran through all of the media- places that are so much greater and more incredible than they are made out to be. All of my family would cringe in fear and anger if I said I wanted to travel anywhere near there. I am so thankful to have found your posts- they show the true, REAL, wonderfully multifaceted side of a place many Americans don’t understand. I would love to travel there someday. You are a true inspiration.
Silvia says
I’m so glad you found my blog, and that you were happy to read about Iran! It really is such a special place.
Carol says
I’m planning to visit Iran in the next few weeks and was super excited to find this blog. I’ve wanted to go to Iran for so long… thank you Silvia for sharing great stories. I’m already loving the place and the people!
Silvia says
I hope you love it as much as I did!
taban says
nice article about iran . tehran is big city but live in teran is hard.