This post was written together with Danielle and also appears on her blog The Roaming Coconut.
After two weeks traveling through Israel, it was time to go somewhere new. I was already obsessed with visiting the Balkans and Danielle really wanted to go to Greece, so after a bottle of wine and a call to my airline we had yet another three-week adventure planned. A ticket to Athens with enough time to visit Albania and Macedonia as well. And the kicker? A 16-hour layover in Belgrade!
We were excited to be heading to Serbia, but leaving Israel turned out to be more difficult than we had anticipated.
At the airport security counter Silvia got through with little problem, but when I put my bag through I received some suspicious looks. Phone calls were made and suddenly I was being introduced the very serious (yet strikingly handsome) head of security. I was peppered with questions.
“Why are you in Israel? How many times have you been here? Do you speak Hebrew? A little Hebrew? Where did you learn? Who taught you?”
I was starting to doubt myself. Had someone planted a bomb on me? Was I going to be able to board the flight? What had I done?!
After about five minutes of questioning, the man looked at me and sternly said,
“You have a knife in your bag.”
Whoops. Suddenly my genius idea of always carrying around a butter knife (so useful for cutting tomatoes and spreading hummus!) seemed much less genius. On the other hand, you can be sure that Ben Gurion’s airport security is always on point! Ultimately I had to forfeit my knife but was allowed to pass. Phew.
We arrived in Belgrade’s city center around 11 pm and would have to leave for the airport at 11 am the next morning. I know what you must be thinking: sounds great, that’s just enough time to get a good night’s sleep in Belgrade!
Not quite.
We had heard that Belgrade has a great nightlife, so I contacted fellow blogger Megan Starr for advice, and she immediately put us in touch with Nate and Phillipa of Yomadic fame, who generously offered to host us for the night. Not only are they currently based in Belgrade, but they actually run tours of the Balkans, so we could not have asked for better hosts!
Even though it was already late on a Tuesday evening, we set out with Nate and Phillipa intent on seeing as much of Belgrade at night as we could. Our first stop was Bigz, a semi-abandoned, graffiti-adorned former printing press, which houses a jazz bar on its tenth floor.
(sorry for the low-quality iPod photos, eek!)
Unfortunately it was closed by the time we got there but we still enjoyed the urban art and definitely plan on checking it out when we’re next in Belgrade!
Don’t worry, readers, we eventually found a bar that was still open. And we also found an extremely fat dog!
We spent the night talking to Nate and Phillipa about Belgrade, life and traveling. I had become a bit obsessed with Yomadic while planning my trip to Iran, so after talking to Nate and Phillipa in person? Basically I really want their lives. Please. 
By the time we were watching the sun rise over the city, it was safe to say I was also obsessed with Belgrade. Seriously, I don’t know how a city could steal my heart so quickly, but I was definitely in love with Belgrade. We ended our night with pizza and crepes, unable to make a decision because after Israel, everything just seemed so cheap!
Three hours of sleep and a run to the local bakery to pick up some meat burek later, we sadly had to return to the airport. We’ll see you again soon, Belgrade!
As for now, if anyone has any tips on Greek islands, send them our way!
Linda says
Santorini island, by far the absolute most beautiful place, according to my co worker
Karen
Silvia says
Perfect – tell Karen thanks for the tip!
Agness says
I was totally blew away by colorful artwork of Belgrade. Would not expect something like that there! Yummy food :D!
Silvia says
The food was seriously yummy! Belgrade just seemed like such a cool city – I really can’t wait to go back and explore it properly!
Yosemite says
I fly into Belgrade in Augusttttt yay I just have to do this stupid bar exam thing first. Also we opted for Paros as one of our island stops in Greece last year and loved it. Not as well-known/popular as Mykonos et al, but super gorgeous. And yeah Santorini obvs. When Alicia and I were in Greece we did Syros, another quieter/less flashy option (YEAH WE HUNG OUT WITHOUT YOU TOO)
Silvia says
We’re on Paros now!! And just came from Santorini! You and Alicia might hang out without me but obviously YOU AND I ARE MOST IN SYNC. Speaking of Alicia, call her and yell at her that she needs to write to me, please.
Ughh so jealous of your Balkan travel plans can I just pretend to be a lawyer too and join you guys?!!!
Victoria says
What a shame that you weren’t able to spend a full day in Belgrade, but you still did pretty well LOL! I can’t help you with Greece but I can surely relate to the butter knife situation.
I was going to Vietnam via Moscow and the airport staff in Berlin got pretty excited. They were enormously polite asking me what was in my small backpack, I insisted that nothing but a cushion and books (?!!) were there, and had forgotten that I had packed a butter knife ready for the Russian bread and pickles I was looking forward to. Alas, there was nothing to be had except an 8 hour stopover and bottles of Russian and Polish vodka!!
Silvia says
Haha Danielle was happy to hear that she’s not the only one thinking more about spreading things on bread than airport security. I recently had a ten-hour layover in Moscow with a similarly sad lack of pickles. I will have to just plan a real trip there!
Chris says
I’ve met that Head of Security at Tel Aviv airport too (and my passport was also deemed suspicious). Female security were strikingly attractive and very serious too. That I didn’t have much luggage was almost as interesting as my passport.
Silvia says
Haha oh dear. I laugh, but the airport security in Tel Aviv really was no laughing matter. While we were there they were also refusing to let an old Chinese woman bring her laptop on board…
Rachael C says
I backpacked Corfu, Ios, and Santorini. Santorini being by far the most beautiful but very touristy. Ios is a party island (along with Mykonos, which I’ve never been to) If you go to Ios you should stay at Far Out Beach Club, it is a “campground” but most of it is rented little huts you can stay in for relatively cheap (cheap for the Greek islands, anyway) It has cool pools and its a fun spot to be. It is also right in front of the beach. If you go to Corfu, you have to stay at the Pink Palace. Amazing hostel.
Silvia says
Awesome, thanks so much for the tips! I think Santorini is definitely in now, and maybe we’ll try for a second island as well. I’ll keep your suggestions in mind!
Chris says
Nice, you would really enjoy Belgrade if you spent a little longer there. At first it’s not the most attractive city, but its charm grabs hold of you after a couple of weeks.
Silvia says
It grabbed hold of me after a couple of hours! I seriously sort of want to move there now… or at least return for more than a day, ha.
Agness says
I would spend hours and hours just strolling down the streets and admiring the art work on the walls!
Silvia says
Me too! Belgrade was such an interesting city to wander around – it sort of broke my heart to have to leave it so soon!
Guru says
I’m really eager to fly Belgrade soon after reading this article Silvia!
Silvia says
And I’m really eager to return to Belgrade! Fingers crossed I can make it happen soon.
Wolfgang says
Hi Silvia,
you had 16 hours in Belgrade?
This is nasty, I only had 12… 🙁
But wrote also an article about my stay! 😉
If you are interested:
http://www.groovyplanet.de/zwoelf-stunden-in-belgrad/
It´s in german, but you could use Google translator on the right side of the text if you like.
Cheers from Beirut!
Wolfgang
Silvia says
Only 12 hours? Oh no! You’ll have to go back. Ich habe ein Jahr in Deutschland gelebt, so vielleicht kann ich deine Geschichte auf Deutsch lesen 🙂
Wolfgang says
Of course you can…
Next night I will be in Belgrade again. Stopover on my way back to Germany! For 50 minutes…..
Shira says
Hey Danielle & Sylvia–
I lived in Belgrade for 4 months — it’s incredible! The nightlife is indeed amazing, but I’m not sure if it’s as crazy as it used to be. While I was there in 2011, a new law took effect that bars and clubs had to close a lot earlier than in the past. This was part of the effort to Europeanize and join the EU (they were still trying to get EU candidate status). Interesting example of how culture + policy/law mix. Next time you’re in Belgrade, ask your local friends about the secret clubs! Hopefully they will be open later in the evening/earlier in the morning 🙂
-Shira
Silvia says
Our hosts were saying that it’s a little more subdued now, but Belgrade’s nightlife still seemed pretty crazy to me! I really can’t wait to get another (hopefully longer) chance to explore the city.
Pam @Skinny chick travelling says
Belgrade takes you over with it’s energy in a second 🙂 You should def go back and visit Croatia too 🙂
Love peace and pancakes
Silvia says
I’m already planning a Balkan trip for this spring 🙂 SO excited!
Pam @Skinny chick travelling says
Yes yes 🙂 Spring is the best time – let me know if you need any help and if passing through Zagreb let me know 😉
Silvia says
Thanks, Pam, I will!
Marco says
Definitely 16 hours are not enough for Belgrade, which it is for sure the new European Capital of fun!
We had an intensive time in Belgrade, so please fell free to check our blog with all in the info as best bars, clubs, attractions and restaurants!
http://daytripandmap.com/places/europe/serbia/belgrade/
Thanks a lot and hope to meet you on the way, wherever it will be!
Marco
Silvia says
Thanks so much for the tips, Marco – blogs really are the best way to figure out what to do in a place. So excited to go back to Belgrade!
MikeD says
Ha! I knew that I wasn’t the only one missing this city! Was there last Spring for 2 days and extended my ticket by 1 more week. Wanted to stay even longer but sadly had to come home. Felt so relaxed and content just being there. There is definitely a vibe that you feel and it makes you want to explore the entire city. Going back again in August!
Mikica says
Belgrade is a fantastic city. Not because of the building, but because of the people are wonderful, and what is particularly helpful, most speak English language, especially the younger population. My favorite city to visit.
Silvia says
It’s one of my favorites too, for all those reasons!