The last time I visited Tromsø I was, I don’t know, like six years old? My only two memories are of listening to builders working outside my family’s hotel room at 4 am in the bright sunlight and watching the midnight sun not quite set over a beach. Come to think of it, I’m pretty sure the second memory must have been from the North Cape, so I guess my only memory of Tromsø is from that hotel.
Isn’t it strange the things we end up remembering? Like, I’m pretty sure out of all the things we experienced in Tromsø together my parents weren’t like this, this is the stuff of memories. Silvia will never forget this hotel room!
Which is all to say, I was very intrigued to spend a couple of days in Tromsø again and experience everything the city has to offer you know, beyond the hotel rooms.
It turns out Tromsø has loads more to offer! In fact there were several aspects of Tromsø I ended up falling in love with (and a couple I didn’t).
To help plan my trip to Tromsø I used this in depth Tromsø guide, written by my friend Vanessa who used to live there. It includes tips for places to stay, places to eat, and places to see in Tromsø, itineraries, and special tips for the budget traveller, the Northern Lights hunter and families. You can buy the ebook here.
Loved: The food
I’m not the biggest foodie – I tend to find any and all food super delicious. Or wait, does that mean I am a big foodie? What I mean to say is, I usually don’t write much about food in my blog posts because I will rave about just about anything I eat, even if it’s objectively actually kind of gross. So I’m probably not the best person to be offering restaurant tips.
But I just had to mention the food in Tromsø because everything I ate there was so good. And I’m pretty sure you would agree (Dan did!). From our hotel breakfast (more on that later) to cafe nibbles to a couple of seriously yummy meals, Tromsø fed us well.
My two favorite places I ate were Burgr and Huken BRYGG. We went to Burgr on a recommendation from Vanessa’s Tromsø guidebook and because Dan had read that it’s full of retro video game memorabilia. I had the falafel burger with chips and kimchi on the side and it was super delicious. And while Huken BRYGG looked a bit trendy for us from the outside, the food was amazing (probably the best we had on our trip) and the atmosphere really cosy.
I don’t have any photos of the restaurants, so instead here are some from the city ski jumps. I seriously can’t believe people actually jump off of these! This is how I know I’m only half Norwegian.
Loved: The surrounding nature
I can’t get over the landscape in Northern Norway. The mountains are more rugged than in the south and even in June their peaks were covered in snow. And of all the landscape I saw, that surrounding Tromsø was some of the most beautiful.
There are also so many lovely little villages close by Tromsø. We stopped in Ersfjordbotn as they were having a little festival and as we sat on the edge of the water with a coffee at Bryggejentene it was hard to believe we were so close to the city.
Didn’t love: The weather
So we had a lovely time in Tromsø, but ugh I wish the weather had been better! I mean, that’s not Tromsø’s fault, and in fact the only reason I was sad about the rain and clouds was that when we first drove into the city the skies were actually clear.
You see, Tromsø is surrounded by spectacular mountains making for some seriously incredible views, but when it’s cloudy they all disappear! So basically when I arrived in Tromsø I was all whaat this place is magical! but then a few hours later the magic faded into a gray backdrop. So sad.
Loved: Sommarøy
Maybe the rainy weather wasn’t such a bad thing after all, as even on a cloudy day Sommarøy looked like paradise.
Sommarøy is about an hour’s drive from Tromsø, but I can assure you it is well worth the detour! The beaches have the most turquoise water I’ve seen in Norway and it was so quiet and peaceful there.
Loved: The hotel
It turns out that my hotel was memorable this time around as well!
We stayed at the Thon Hotel Polar and I feel like I have to mention it because it was one of my favorite stays of our two weeks in Northern Norway. Our room was spacious and bright, and the receptionist (who mysteriously always seemed to be there, day and night) was so incredibly sweet and helpful. And you may have already heard me rave about the breakfast buffets at Thon hotels before on my blog, and the breakfast at Thon Polar was no exception. Thon really does do the best hotel breakfast.
The hotel is right in the city center, within just a few minutes walking of most of the places we wanted to see. Just be aware that they don’t have their own parking, but there’s a parking garage about 50 meters from the hotel (I think we paid around 200 kroner a day). Check current rates and availability here
Loved: It’s multicultural
I think Tromsø is the only place I’ve been in Norway where I’ve heard more English than Norwegian. It was crazy! Dan kept getting disheartened when people would answer his Norwegian questions in English, only to realize that they didn’t actually speak Norwegian. None of the waiters anywhere we ate were Norwegian.
I don’t know if that’s just a summer thing or a Tromsø thing, but it made for a really fun vibe in the city. And if you’re visiting and don’t speak any Norwegian you can rest assured that that won’t be a problem here at all!
Didn’t love: The crowds
Okay this is a bit embarrassing, but on our last night in Tromsø before going to bed Dan and I were talking about all the things we loved about Tromsø and then at the end I said, “but it will be nice to get away from the noise and traffic when we leave,” and Dan nodded.
Guys, Tromsø has a population of under 80,000. Tromsø is not a big city, but Dan and I both found it kind of overwhelming! We both grew up in much larger cities – I mean, Dan grew up in the center of London – but maybe living in the mountains has turned us into country bumpkins?
Though I do still love other big cities around the world. I think more so I’m just drawn more to the countryside in Norway. At any rate, if you love cities you will love Tromsø, and if you live in the middle of nowhere and are used to seeing the same few hundred faces you might find Tromsø a bit much, haha.
Fun fact: when I was writing about my visits to Mo i Rana and Narvik I kept referring to both of them as cities and had to go back and change both articles when I read that they’re actually both towns (what??). Luckily for my sanity our next stop would take us into the mountains – stay tuned!
Nynke says
Hahaha, you got overwhelmed by how busy Tromsø was? That’s so funny! I’m glad for you you didn’t have to stay long, though ;). I wonder if the international vibe of Tromsø has anything to do with its university? It’s got a really really good reputation and seems to get a lot of government funding, probably to make sure that it keeps its critical mass in spite of its remote location.
I love how loud ‘Huken BRYGG’ (all caps!) sounds! Like it shouts BREW! at you (is that what it means?)
Sommarøy pics: keep the pictures of turquoise waters coming! They’re addictive… And wouldn’t it be wonderful to go there during the few hot days the region sees every few years? So lucky…
Silvia says
Right? Dan and I were definitely laughing at ourselves when we were talking about all the “crowds” (in reality it wasn’t at all crowded). And yeah, it definitely feels like a student city! That mixed with a tourist city, so I think a lot of foreign tour and adventure guides might live there too.
Lol at BREW – so true! And yeah, I would loooove to visit Sommarøy on a warm, sunny day. I’m making it a mission!
Justine Lopez says
Oh my god, what I would give to be a country bumpkin and live in the middle of nowhere. I actually really like living in Ho Chi Minh City and I love people watching and being able to walk down the street and find all manner of cheap and delicious food, but the constant noise and chaos are totally wearing on me. That’s too funny that you and Dan found an 80,000 person city overwhelming 🙂 How things change! I swear Aaron and I need to move to a cabin in the woods as soon as we’re done with our Vietnam experience!
Dominique | dominiquetravels.com says
I just finished my post about my 3 days in Tromso in the winter. I have to say overall the city didn’t sweep me off my feet. A lot of what you wrote is recognizable, but the biggest thing for me is that it lacked atmosphere. It’s the only city I visited in Tromso, and I wonder if the rest of Norway would suit me better…
Jo says
Those ski jumps are terrifying, I can’t believe people do that either haha. Ah I know what you mean about crowds but it’s all relative now your in such beautiful scenery,
http://www.jettravels.co.uk
Jo
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Joanne | Travel Visa Australia says
Tromso sure looks beautiful! I’ll add this to my list of travel!
Anna Makridi says
Beautiful place! Thanks for sharing!
Harshwardhan Jain says
I read plenty of your blogs and I am Keen on asking tons of questions and would love if you could give some suggestions since you seem to have travelled this amazing country. I am a student in Germany and wish to see northern lights in Norway in the month of December. My friends also wish to attend New year’s in Oslo. Is it legit or good idea to take a road trip from Oslo to let say Tromsø to see the Northern lights? If no what can you recommend? Also are the roads safe during winters to drive? It would be amazing if your answer these questions. Have a life long dream to see Northern Lights
Silvia says
Personally I would recommend flying from Oslo to Tromso, as it’s a 22 hour drive. Of course if you don’t mind driving then it could be a fun road trip! The roads are perfectly safe to drive on, just be prepared for lots of snow.
pierre says
We have been to Mid Norway last year with a mobilhome. We left from Bergen and drove around between Bergen en Alesund. we avoid big cities on purpose. this scenery is mindblowing. Look for the glaciers and consult the Norwegian road-guides that explain very well war you can expect with photos.
Its a country that you have to cross on the road to get the real character . there is a lot of tunnels and sometimes when you leave in the rain , sunshine await you the other side. Even the dramatic skies are characteristic for Norway. Walk , take ferrys, and let nature come to you.
pierre says
the scenery around Oslo and the way to has very few exiting sitings. Better fly to Stavanger or Bergen and rent a car there to go to tromso. the most beautiful Fjords are also over there.
Scorpio says
Great post! Glad to find your blog some wonderful pictures collection.
Camille says
It is interesting to have your feedback on the city! I guess you came when the summer season with tons of tourists started – it gets “crowded” for me too when Tromsø is invaded by enormous cruise ships (but luckily, it seems much calmer the rest of the year). Also, the center itself is pretty small, so it can seem crowded easily.
The weather is something you have to accomodate with when living there…It is changing so fast and can be quite bad (we had quite bad weather throughout June this year, it was a bit depressing haha), which is really frustrating when you can only imagine how gorgeous the surroundings are.
As some others said I guess the international vibe in Tromsø is due to the University. It is indeed quite famous and there are a lot of exchange students (I was myself and just fell in love with it, so I decided to come back to continue my studies there).
Anyway, Tromsø has so much to offer 🙂 It definitely worths a visit when traveling in northern Norway.
Edda M Knight says
just stumbled into your blog, loved all the information and ideas, when I turned 75 last year I traveled to
Spitzbergen end of March and was totally blown away by its unique beauty (it was my birthday gift from my
son and husband) it was my most epic trip ever, and the second trip to Norway. I have traveled to Asia many times and also love Guatemala among the many countries I have visited, I can highly recommend Antigua, where I study Spanish.
I am now working on a trip from Beijing to Moskow, your blog gave me some ideas about the Stans, and by the
way when I followed the Silk Road in China for a while, I saw the crumbling wall and I guess the end of the original wall in the horizon and felt the beginning of the Gobi desert under my feet I wanted to cry. The world is a wonderful place and I am very happy for you to have discovered it early. Love your interesting commentaries,
“Life is an adventure or nothing at all” happy travels, yours Edda M Knight
Olafr says
Skal for jeg leser det og ja vi elsker Norge av bygda alle dem. Cheers to what I read and yes I love Norway, those villages all of them.💖❤️🍫🇳🇴
Ana Ferreira says
Hi. I’m from Brazil. i plan to go to Tromso with my mother. But I’m in doubt when to Go. December or february? Can you help us?
Silvia says
I would recommend February because the sun will rise again so there will be a bit more daylight, and there will be lots of snow, whereas in December sometimes it is rainy here.
Farida says
I’m traveling to Tromso with my small dog and wanted to know if you know of any dog-friendly coffee shops or restaurants there?
Thanks 🙂
Silvia says
The only one I know is Frø cafe – it’s super cute.