Riga really won me over. The last time I had visited was with my sister when I was 17 and the only thing I really remember is sitting in a park in the rain after realizing that holds had been placed on both our debit cards, we didn’t know where our hostel was, and we had spent our last euros at a McDonald’s in Helsinki.
Ah to be a teen again!
Ugh on second thought, who would want to go through that again? Not me. I would, however, happily go through Riga again and again, because it really is such a wonderful city. The architecture! The parks! The street art!
But I’m getting ahead of myself, as we actually visited Tallinn before Riga.
I was almost going to skip writing about Tallinn altogether because, you guys, Tallinn did not win me over. It didn’t really do anything for me at all in fact, except perhaps make me even more depressed that our visas to Russia had just expired.
Tallinn is probably best known by travelers for its picture-perfect Old Town, which is now a World Heritage Site.
It’s certainly beautiful, but with every other building housing a souvenir shop, restaurant, or night club and its streets packed with tourists (even in mid-March!) it felt a little inauthentic. Indeed, the Old Town feels so separate from the rest of Tallinn and so squeaky clean that I just couldn’t quite warm to it. Though I can see why it’s become a favorite spot for hen and stag parties!
I didn’t love Tallinn when I went as a teenager either, but to be fair, this time I suspect my lack of enthusiasm for Tallinn was mostly about my sadness over leaving Russia. Traveling of course always comes with highs and lows, and after my built up excitement about finally seeing Russia I guess I was due for a crash. Unfortunately, Tallinn was that crash.
I couldn’t muster up the energy to go and discover it for myself. It’s definitely a drawback of longterm travel – sometimes I simply can’t enjoy a place, and I leave not quite knowing if it was because of the place or because I was just being moody.
Maybe I’ll need to visit Tallinn again?
Edit: I did! And for anyone else struggling to love Tallinn, I hugely recommend going beyond the Old Town and visiting Kalamaja. You can read my full guide to Kalamaja and Tallinn’s alternative side here.
But I think the drive through the beautiful countryside into Latvia mended my spirits, because I totally fell in love with our next stop, Riga! Its Old Town is also beautifully preserved, but it felt more connected to the rest of the city, with locals bustling through its cobbled streets and even some normal, non tourist-centric shops!
I enjoyed simply wandering through Riga’s neighborhoods and getting a feel for the different sides of the city. Riga has the world’s largest concentration of Art Nouveau architecture and its Old Town is a World Heritage Site, so we definitely didn’t have to worry about getting bored walking through the city.
I also loved seeing the transition from the pretty center to its more industrial outskirts – I definitely will need to go back and explore Riga more thoroughly!
We also stopped in the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia, where I brushed up on my European history. Occupied by Soviet then German and then again Soviet forces during World War II and subsequently kept as part of the Soviet Union for decades after, Latvia hasn’t had an easy century.
But I’ve rarely seen a history museum conclude on such a positive note, with Latvia’s independence and finally its inclusion in the European Union. I love happy endings!
Where to Stay in Tallinn and Riga
In Tallinn we stayed at Fat Margaret’s, which is near the Old Town and Linnahall. The rooms were really clean and the common area was huge. Check current rates for Fat Margaret’s here
In Riga we stayed at Art Hotel Laine, which was beautifully decorated and had a great Latvian feel. Our room was spacious and comfortable, and the breakfast was delicious! It’s also a bargain. Check current rates for Art Hotel Laine here
Have you been to Riga or Tallinn? Do you have a favorite?
ann yasin says
I went to Riga in 2008 and I totally agree with you! What a beautiful city! I really love the architecture and beautiful cafés, reminds me a bit of old Europe.
Silvia says
Right? I would love to spend more time in Riga and really get to know the city.
Rachel says
I’ve not been to either, they both look pretty and photogenic. I’ve found that quite a few of these historic old towns feel a little soul-less and Disneyfied, I try to look past the tourist shops, often exploring early morning, but it’s still a joy when you find a place that still holds buckets of character and atmosphere.
I had exactly the same flat feeling after arriving into Germany after Helsinki, I’d taken the direct ferry with a very heavy heart, thoroughly depressed to be leaving a country I’d fallen in love with. Even glorious Konstanz couldn’t cheer my aching soul for a while!
Silvia says
If beautiful Konstanz couldn’t cheer you up, it must be a sign that I need to give Tallinn another chance when I’m in a happier mood!
Justine says
This is opening up a whole new part of the world to me. Seriously the architecture of both places is so freaking cool. I would love to visit both. Why can’t I set out on another long term journey right now?!
Silvia says
Come join me, Justine!!!
Megan says
ahhahahah this post feels like it was written from me. i feel exactly the same way. here’s the thing- i love estonia. i have been twice and love tartu, as well as tallinn. BUT- i would never go back to tallinn alone (both times i was traveling with others) because tallinn just doesnt do it for me. i take other people there that i know will enjoy that old town and it’s touristyishness (not a word but you know what im saying). then, if the dont particularly love tallinn because it is too much, i take them down to riga. i know if tallinn wasnt their cup of tea, that riga almost certainly is. i find both riga and tallinns old towns to be very ‘fake’ish. ugh. not the right word. i guess just not authentic like you mentioned above. but riga is massive and outside of that, there are world’s to be discovered. while tallinn has that too, it is a much smaller city than riga. they always say lithuania is like europe, estonia is like scandinavia, and latvia is like russia. i guess that is why i prefer latvia most 😉 (although i think riga is very europeanish- i totally agree that the rest of latvia is very russified). anyways, great post. glad to know it isn’t just me :):)
by the way, estonian craft beer rocks.
Silvia says
I’m really happy to hear that I wasn’t just being crazy! I love that you have a strategy for showing your friends the Baltics, haha. Aaaand now I know why Latvia is also my favorite – hello, Russia!
Renate @ Renate's Travels says
I’ve been to both of them (Riga twice), and I love both of their historic town centers. I also liked getting up high and watching the view over Tallinn. I was there on a beautiful spring day with good company, and I think I only have good memories, hehe. Riga is bigger though, and there is much more to see and do, I think. I had been in Vilnius right before I went to Riga the second time, and I remember how many Scandinavian tourists there were there in contrast to Vilnius and that kinda put me off. I think we have a few hours layover in Riga on the way to Georgia this summer, so I guess I’ll get to see the city a third time, this time in summer. Kinda excited about that!
Silvia says
Yeah, I think I would have enjoyed Tallinn more if I had been in a better mood. Lucky you, going to Riga AND Georgia this summer!
Melanie | Don't FOrget Snacks says
Great, honest post. I had such a similar experience in Tallinn to you! The old town was very picturesque, but it didn’t seem to be a functioning part of the city at all. Plus, I was feeling mopey after leaving all my Trans-Siberian travel buddies, and the old town felt full of happy holiday-makers laughing and enjoying each others’ company. No place for the lonely!
At one of the lookouts over the city, there was a phrase painted on the wall: ‘The Times We Had’. Filled with nostalgia over my time in Russia, I must’ve taken at least 100 photos of that phrase and the view. I felt like such an emo teenager, haha.
I wouldn’t rule out going back, but if I did, it’d definitely be with my boyfriend. I want to be the one laughing and staring into someone’s eyes at a sidewalk cafe ringed by flowerpots…
Silvia says
It was just so strange that Tallinn wasn’t a functioning part of the city! I love that it drew out the emo teenager in you, though, haha!
Rebekah says
I’ve hated towns before just because I was sad to leave the one before it. I love your story about travelling as a teenager- definitely no one wants to repeat that. Are you going to make it Romania? I love that country. Such good cheese
Silvia says
Yes, I’ll be going to Romania in a couple of weeks!! Any suggestions? Love that you mentioned the cheese – a sure sign that you are living in Asia, haha.
Miriam Risager says
I understand your enthusiasm for Riga! One of my girlies is from there and she talks about it all the time. From what I’ve heard, Riga tops Talinn and it’s becoming a hot destination for Northern Europeans. I’m glad it cheered you up. Leaving a country you love can be really hard… I feel the same every time I leave Thailand.
Silvia says
Thailand is definitely a hard country to leave! I’d imagine it would be even harder if it’s the country where you got married 🙂
Miriam Risager says
Thank you, Silvia. That was really nice of you to say <3
becky hutner says
how sad about talinn! i had very romantic visions of that city. ah well, my eastern europe envy continues. i wonder if you’ll be hitting lithuania??
Silvia says
Just wrote a post about Lithuania! And maybe you would enjoy Tallinn more than I did? I’m still not sure if I was just being a total grump…
John @ TravelerLife says
It can be very disappointing when you truly don’t enjoy a destination on your Journey. I can understand though how things seem disconnected and disingenuous. It’s good that you had a location so close by that you get so much enjoyment from. Can’t let the blues keep you down for too long while traveling! I have not been to this area so I’m enjoying living it through your stories. I admittedly had t look up the definition of a Hen and Stag party though haha.
Silvia says
It’s definitely an interesting region to explore, next time you find yourself in Eastern Europe!
Heather @ Ferreting Out the Fun says
I’m sorry I missed you while you were here, but am so happy you loved Riga! I think it is such fascinating place!I also prefer Riga to Tallinn, which I found to be beautiful but a little shallow. But I have yet to venture further than Tallinn’s old town. I definitely need to explore more of Estonia!
Silvia says
I need to explore more of Estonia as well! Except that if I’m in the area I would sort of rather just see Latvia, haha.
kami says
I completely understand you with not enjoying Tallinn. I loved how beautiful the Old Town was but it lacked the atmosphere. Too bad you didn’t go to the places I found outside of the Old Town, you’d love them for sure!
And now I’m getting excited for my trip to Riga in September!! I’ve been there 3 times before but never really felt it. But now I’m willing to find some cool places there!!
Silvia says
I will need to visit all the places on your list next time I’m in Tallinn. And you will have to learn to love Riga and write up a list of things to do there as well, so I can copy your travels one more time 🙂
Maria's Adventure says
You should visit Tallinn during Christmas – it is so cosy – especially if you are lucky with the weather (snow!) 😀
But I have to admit that I prefer Riga as well 🙂
matvejevs says
Riga is a beautiful city but tallinn is not a bad as compared to Riga.
Silvia says
Riga is my personal preference, but I know a lot of people who really love Tallinn so I should probably give it another chance!
Triin says
Hey! As a native estonian I’m not a fan of Tallinn either. Estonia is so much more than Tallinn, though! Visit the seaside beach town Pärnu, the small town Viljandi for lakes and Castle ruins, Soomaa national park for ancient forests and south estonia for beautiful hills and tiny villages. The islands on the west coast of estonia are also beautiful and deserve a shout out for nature, food and awesome people. There’s even an area called Noarootsi (kinda like new-sweden) with their semi swedish language and people. Get out of Tallinn, dude.
Silvia says
Wow, it sounds like I need to explore more of Estonia!
Iris says
Hey.
Loved your post, but it’s not about the city. Next time don’t visit the city, visit the country. Estonia is small enough to travel the whole country in a week or two. You’ll be amazed how pretty it actually is.
Good luck with your travels and I am so jealous on you. :))
Silvia says
I’m dying to see the countryside in Estonia! I want to go in the winter so I can go cross-country skiing 🙂
Svjetski putnik says
I’ve been in both cities, but I choose Riga over Tallinn. Tallinn has a nice Old Town but I didn’t find anything unique and distinctive. At the other side, Riga has a magnificent architecture, I adore Art Nouveau buildings. And also it’s not overcrowded like a Tallinn.
Mara says
I’ve discovered your blog while searching info about Northen Norway and I must say, you did a pretty massive job to write so many posts about Norway, so I think I will need maybe week to read all I want 🙂 that’s great. But as I am Latvian, I was wondering if you have been to Latvia too. Most of tourists stick to Riga and that’s fine, but believe me, all Baltic states each have their treasures hidden deep in their countryside and other areas of the country. I’ve travelled a lot but still my heart goes for Latvia, Riga and some other little towns. If you ever decide to travel again to Latvia (and I strongly advise to do so! also Lithuania and Estonia) I would like to inspire you to go to Kuldiga – I can’t really tell how charming, cozy, inspirational, authentic and chic is this small town, who also is Hanseatic town and holds UNESCO status. I’ve been there four times and want more, because Kuldiga has that aura, that vibe you may got just from the wandering around narrow streets with wooden houses and cobbled patways from 17-18 centuries, with cozy and very Scandinavian and Italian-type coffes and restaurants, idyllic nature, Venta river views and warm-hearted people. And also there are some European level attraction sites, for example, the widest waterfall in Europe (Ventas rumba, 249 m) and the longest historical bridge made of bricks. Very picturesque, by the way!
Some foreigh travellers who have been in Kuldiga said to me that it was amazing just to wander around the streets with photocamera and to feel that authentic spirit of Kuldiga.
Also I’ve never agree that Latvia is like Russia, no,no,no we have different culture, traditions, folk heritage and our own believs and customs. Despite of all countries that had been ruled over Latvians over centuries we gained our independence, however, I must say, we still are on our way to develop strong nation and infrastructure. That stereotype is the same if someone told that India is like Great Britain just because it ruled over India for some time.
Also to countinue about attractions, here in Latvia we have around 1000 (!) manors and castles mostly originated from German ruling period, of course, most of them are ruins (some amazing like Koknese medieval castle ruins), but 100-150 of those manors are revived as charming country boutique hotels and you may take a castle-manor tour, to feel the aristocratic side of life 😊 with horse riding, boat rides in lakes and rivers, long walks around the magnificent parks, lazy breakfasts on the terrace, also excursions and more. I’ve could tell a lot about other wonderfull destinations in Latvia, but that would make my comment as long as the novel! 😊
If you decide to go to Latvia one day, I would be glad to share some tips and ideas what to visit! I assume that after tourist invasion to Croatia, Balcans, Georgia, Bali, Thailand etc. (which is good for the development of economy, but still the tourist flows changes the spirit of place), the Baltics will be the next travel destinations, for now it is hidden gem, which is not bad really.
Wish you luck on your travels! 🙂