I’ve traveled to a lot of places I had barely heard of before going, often with no idea what to expect, but Moscow was not one of those places. Literature, history, films, current events – talk of Moscow is everywhere. Some people say it’s the best city in Russia, others say it lacks charm and is too overwhelming, and yet others say that it’s simply too dangerous to visit. So of course I was excited to finally visit Moscow and find out the truth.
The truth about Moscow is: sometimes it rains.
After weeks of beautiful sunny skies in Siberia, in Moscow we saw our first gray clouds. It’s amazing, and incredibly unfair, how much weather can affect your experience of a city. I really was impressed with Moscow and in awe of its many iconic sites, yet I struggled to see past all the grayness.
Then again, there was something thrilling about sludging through the misty weather and then looking up to a reminder that, oh right, I’m in MOSCOW!
While my excitement about Moscow stems mostly from an obsession with Russian literature, we were quickly reminded of the city’s political importance as we crossed the bridge where Boris Nemtsov had just been shot.
I had also wanted to visit Lenin’s Mausoleum (morbid, I know), but sadly it was closed. I guess he was due for another round of chemicals to preserve his lovely skin.
Instead we ventured into GUM, a very fancy department store along Red Square dating back to 1893. There we had one of my best meals in Russia, at Stolovaya № 57, a surprisingly cheap Soviet-style cafeteria hidden amidst GUM’s designer shops. If you’ve ever in Moscow, lunch here is a must!
We spent three nights in Moscow, and the clouds persisted into our second day. Luckily the rain didn’t get my spirits too down, because Moscow’s most impressive site is underground!
I’m talking about Moscow’s metro system of course. I love how luxurious the central stations feel, with their intricate molding, giant chandeliers, and beautiful paintings. But I also love how the stations farther from the city center eventually become less decadent and more Soviet.
I was nervous that Moscow would feel overwhelming after Siberia and impossible to navigate, but thanks to the guidance of our wonderful Couchsurfing host Drew, the city felt totally manageable.
Drew is from Connecticut, so it was really interesting to hear an American expat’s take on life in Moscow (he’s learned to avoid vodka and talking about politics). He also took us to a viewpoint of the city near Vorobyovy Gory which ended up being one of my favorite places we visited in Moscow. Well, the view was awful because of all the clouds, but then we walked through an old ski park, down a ski jump!
As a Norwegian I’ve of course spent far too much time watching ski jump competitions on TV, but somehow I never realized that the jumps are quite so high. What are those athletes thinking?!
Finally, on our third day in Moscow the sun came out!
We spent most of the day at Tsaritsyno Park, an estate dating back to the 16th century which was eventually bought by Catherine the Great in 1775, who planned to have a palace built there. She died before construction was finished, so she never actually lived there, but visitors can see a newly restored version of the palace, including a few rooms as they would have been designed.
Tickets purchased at the park’s museum allow visitors to see the inside of the palace, but as it’s newly restored and never actually was a completed palace, I found the inside a little boring. Plus, it’s a museum. The grounds are beautiful, however, and I’d definitely recommend a trip out there if you have some extra time in Moscow!
Have you been to Moscow yet?
Polly says
<3 the stolovaya – it's like the best of a normal stolovaya without being super sketchy haha
Glad you seemed to enjoy Moscow but yeah, if the grey skies bother you, don't live there! The first year I lived there I went 87 days without seeing the sun once. (And then I only saw it in a town outside of Moscow.)
Silvia says
It was definitely the fanciest stolovaya I went to in Russia – and probably my tastiest meal!
While in Moscow I started daydreaming about moving there, but 87 days without sun?! Wow, that’s rough.
Rachel says
I’m so jealous you went to Moscow! It’s on my bucket list, but like you said, I think of it as a harder city to navigate and manage. Good to hear that you enjoyed it! And I definitely want to see that ski jump!
Silvia says
Moscow was so much easier to travel through than I had thought – you should definitely go!
Esther says
I visited Moscow last year and saw nothing but sunny blue skies. I think I was lucky since the weather in Moscow is always grey. And thanks for the tip for the Tsaritsyno park. I thought I had seen it all, but now I have a reason to come back someday.
Silvia says
Ahh so jealous you got to see Moscow in the sun! I need to go back for my chance 🙂
Andrea says
I have not yet visited Moscow, but after this post I’m pretty sure it’s a city I could have a torrid love affair with. From its colourful architecture to its imperial interior, I am dying to visit! Though, I hope it doesn’t rain!
Silvia says
Even in the rain Moscow couldn’t disappoint! It’s definitely one of those places that feels really surreal to see in real life!
Justine says
Noooo! I can’t believe you didn’t get to see Lenin’s body! That would have been at the top of my list too. I stood in line for over an hour to see Ho Chi Minh in Vietnam. I don’t know why I’m so fascinated by things like this…
Silvia says
I feel a little silly how disappointed I was to miss Lenin’s body, haha. I’ll just have to go back to Moscow!
Shing says
How did you manage to snap a photo of the undergrounds without people?! I tried so many times but it was impossible! Love your photos. Moscow might not be everyone’s cup of tea, but I think everyone will agree the architecture is something to truly behold!!
Silvia says
Haha I only managed to get an empty photo at one of the less central stations, immediately after a train pulled in. Maybe next time we need to do a late night tour?
Kaelene says
I have heard several times about the beautiful metro stations in Moscow. They look stunning!
Silvia says
Moscow’s metro stations are unreal they’re so fancy! I wish all stations were like that.
Leah says
So much amazing architecture! The word luxurious is very appropriate…or perhaps elegant? I love all of it. Haven’t been to Moscow and still have very few opinions about it myself! Would love to visit.
Silvia says
Yes, Moscow really is elegant! I definitely need to go back again to explore more of it!
Catherine says
I did see Lenin in Moscow. The room is quite low lit, you aren’t permitted to stop walking and there is no talking. What surprised me most was how short he was.
Silvia says
I’ve thought that in wax museums too – I don’t know why I always imagine celebrities and politicians to be taller than they really are!
Alli says
Awesome pics! Lovely read 🙂
Silvia says
Thanks, Alli!
Miquel says
I know what you mean about the rain…constant showers all but ruined my time in Hoi An last week.
All rain aside, Moscow looks beautiful.
Silvia says
Right? Ughh rain is the worst!
Rachel says
Holy cow, those are the metro stations?! That’s SO nice and elegant for a public space. Those shots of the flowers for Boris Nemtsov are really moving, especially the one with the Kremlin in the background. Wow. Moscow is really intriguing.
Silvia says
It was really crazy walking across the bridge and seeing all the flowers for Nemtsov. Ahhh Russia, why are your politics so insane?
becky hutner says
I haven’t been yet but am finding your Russian travels positively enthralling! My husband and I are UK-bound in June & had this very tempting opportunity to do a stop-over in Moscow. However, upon reading about the sketchy airline we’d have to take, we decided against.
Silvia says
Oh no, you will have to find another chance to stop in Russia then!
NAILA says
WOW! LOVE ALL YOUR PHOTOS. ITS MAKES ME WANT TO VISIT MOSCOW AND I’M ALSO A FAN OF RUSSIAN LITERATURE! 🙂
Silvia says
Thanks! If you love Russian literature then you definitely need to visit Russia!!
Anna says
Hi Silvia, I’m new to your blog (found it through Upasna!) and I love it, especially your gorgeous photography!! These are seriously the prettiest pictures of Moscow I’ve seen and makes me want to visit. Moscow looks gorgeous even with the gray skies! I’m looking forward to more!
Silvia says
Wow, I’m so glad you like the pictures! Moscow really is gorgeous – definitely worth a visit! Anyway, so happy you found my blog 🙂
Ira says
Hello Silvia! It was a pleasure to read your travel story about my city! I keep inviting my friends to visit me during summer (it is almost always sunny!♥) or during New Year and Christmas vacations period, but still waiting 🙁
Glad to know you enjoyed your stay there! Myself I’ve never been at Stolovaya diner, I was always under the impression it has to be expensive because GUM is very expensive itself! Now I want to explore their menu~ Have you tried GUM famous ice cream in waffle cup?
Silvia says
Oh you have to go to the diner! I can’t believe your friends haven’t visited yet – they are seriously missing out. Like I did missing the ice cream in the waffle cup. Next time!
Vicki Mattingly says
I was just in Moscow for 4 days this past New Year’s. I really enjoyed seeing it in the winter. Although cold, it felt like the right time–especially with the Christmas market shops on Red Square, which added to the magic and awe. Unfortunately we didn’t get to see the fireworks in Red Square for New Year’s because the square was closed for security reasons, but I did get to see Lenin’s tomb on the last day. I agree with the other poster–I was surprised how short he was. I too enjoyed my trip and am glad I got to see a city I’ve been curious about for a long time.
Suzi says
I went there this Dec 2017. It was winter Russia and i really enjoyed Moscow
Patrick says
Thank you for the post. Some good tips in it.