In my last post I mentioned something about running off to Laos with a boy, and somehow my parents managed to refrain from sending me prying emails about this mystery guy. Does that mean that I’m a grown up now? Or no, they were probably just waiting for me to blog about it.
After visiting family in the U.S., England, and Norway, I returned to Chiang Mai to spend six weeks with friends there before heading out for some solo backpacking. I didn’t really have much of a plan for my time in Chiang Mai though, so when Dan, who had time off from his job at the NEED farm, invited me to join him in Laos for two weeks I couldn’t think of an excuse not to go I of course said yes!
With Laos being a former French colony, its capital Vientiane is basically Paris (well, basic being the operative word there): lots of baguette, pastries, wine, and pretty architecture. It even has its own version of the Arc de Triomphe – Patuxai Arch!
Dan took these photos, so no need to get too enthusiastic about them in the comments. Except somehow he didn’t take a photo of me standing in front of the arch, which is of course super important for a travel blog. Luckily I visited Vientiane a few years ago and already had the obligatory tourist shot, phew.
I would post a photo of Dan too, but I respect his privacy so I’ll only put up photos of him with his face obstructed.
We didn’t get to go up to the top of Patuxai because it was closed when we went, but here’s what the view looked like a few years ago!
After four days in Vientiane we hopped on an incredibly cold overnight bus and arrived in Luang Prabang fresh and ready to start the day!
Okay not quite.
(I was kidding about not showing Dan’s face on the blog – just wanted to make my mother sweat.)
As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Luang Prabang boasts a quaint mixture of glittering temples and French cottages, countless riverside restaurants, and of course many, many tourists. It feels like more of a grown up destination in Southeast Asia, not wholly ruled by the elephant pants wearing backpacker crowd (though don’t worry, they’re there too!) and a fair degree more polished than the rest of Laos.
I had already been to Luang Prabang on my last trip to Laos though, and Dan was going to go back there in a couple of weeks when his mother visited, so we only stayed one night – just enough time to wander through town, sit by the river, eat more baguettes, and have a delicious dinner at Lao Lao Garden. It was a perfect last taste of fancy French Laos before we headed up to smaller towns and villages farther north.
Okay, French pastries, riverside restaurants, shaded boulevards, giant fountains? I know what you must be thinking, but sadly Laos is not all romance.
Flying a bit under the tourist radar of its neighbors, Laos is one of the poorest countries in Southeast Asia and has a far from peaceful history.
Now a socialist republic, Laos was a French colony from the late 19th century until 1953, though French policy focused on administering the colony at minimal cost, which in effect did nothing for the country’s economic development or social welfare. But while France did little to help Laos, it was really the United States that dealt the country lasting blows. What’s that – don’t remember talking about Laos in U.S. history class? Funny, me neither.
One afternoon in Vientiane Dan and I took a break from stuffing ourselves with croissants to visit COPE, a local nonprofit that provides orthotic, prosthetic, rehabilitation and advocacy services for survivors of accidents from unexploded ordnance (UXO) in Laos. At the visitor center we watched a documentary about these unexploded bombs left from the United States’ secret war in Laos during the Vietnam War.
The U.S. government dropped more than 2 million tons of cluster bombs and other heavy artillery on Laos in efforts to combat the far-left communist rebel group Pathet Lao, whose members were trying to, and eventually did, take control of the country. These attacks made Laos the most heavily bombed per capita country in the world.
Dan, who’s British, politely refrained from giving me serious side eye as we watched video clips of several U.S. presidents denying any involvement in Laos. Ahh America!
The war ended in vain with nearly all casualties civilian, and left much of Laos contaminated with UXO that continue to explode and injure people today. You can read more about COPE and the situation in Laos here.
We stayed at Vientiane Star Hotel, which had nice clean rooms and a convenient location downtown by the river. Click here to check current prices and more details about Vientiane Star Hotel
We took the overnight seater bus from Vientiane to Luang Prabang, which cost 150,000 kip ($18) per person. I’d definitely recommend paying the extra 25,000 kip for a sleeper bus instead. And bring lots of sweaters!
In Luang Prabang we stayed at Le Vang Bua Villa, which had beautiful rooms, a pool, and an incredibly sweet and helpful manager. Check current prices and more details about Le Vang Bua Villa
Vanessa @ The Travelling Colognian says
It seems that you had a fantastic time in Laos, Silvia. I have been to Luang Prabang twice as well and to Vientiane once, but unfortunately only spent one day in Vientiane which was definitely not enough. Additionally I visited Vang Vieng and took a two day-cruise by slow boat from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang with an overnight stop in a place called Pakbeng. I would love to see the South as well, so I plan to go back there someday.
I am looking forward to read about your adventures.
Have a good time and keep enjoying your travels.
Vanessa @ The Travelling Colognian says
Also, may I ask how you created the “Right now I am in…”-widget with the photo? Did you do this by yourself (as a text box with an image, for example) or is it a finished plugin by WordPress or someone else?
This is something I am searching already for quite a while and what I would also like to integrate into my Blog.
Silvia says
Thanks, Vanessa! I was in Vang Vieng a few years ago and the scene there was crazy! I’ve heard it’s calmed down a bit now though. And my “Right now I’m in:” box is just a text box with an image inserted. Hope that helps!
Vanessa @ The Travelling Colognian says
Thank you so much, Silvia, that is really helpful. The last time I was in Laos was in April 2009. That was also the only time I was in Vang Vieng. I loved the landscape but at that time people were still river-tubing while being totally drunken. I heard that they cancelled tubing, at least for drunken people a while ago after at least one person died, one lapsed into a coma and a few got injured.
memographer says
This is a great story of a man called Dan 🙂
I love Laos. You brought up some memories from my trip. Thanks! Love the old photo of the view from the top of Patuxai. Warm colors.
Silvia says
Thanks! I think I will have fond memories of Laos too now.
Yosemite says
Oh, DAN.
Silvia says
Jordan?!
Heather says
I spent four days in Luang Prabang last year and fell head-over-heels in love with the place. Didn’t make it to Vientiane, sadly. It looks lovely!
Silvia says
Both cities are so lovely! They definitely have a unique feel to the rest of Southeast Asia.
Monica says
I loved Vientiane, you’ve just brought back so many great memories. I actually loved the whole of Laos. I’d love to go back some time and spend more time there.
Silvia says
I agree, Monica – the countryside in Laos was very different from the cities, but I loved it all.
The Travel Sisters says
Great post. Brings back fond memories of our trip to Laos!
iya says
Hi! You mentioned you went to Luang Prabang from Ventiane via a night sleeper bus? How was it? A friend and I will go there this coming February 2015. Most of the articles I’ve read don’t suggest that we take the night bus because of possible dangers on the road, bus conditions, weather, etc. What do you say about it? We’re planning to take the sleeper bus too since we need more time checking out the place and not to waste time. Thanks. If you can please reply on my Facebook page One Lonely Traveler so I can read it immediately. I might not be able to see it here. Thanks!
Silvia says
I actually felt much safer on buses in Laos than Thailand because the roads are pretty bad, so they can’t go fast enough to have a dangerous crash. I also get carsick, so doing the journey from Vientiane to Luang Prabang while awake would have been brutal. I would make sure to wear warm clothes on the bus though, because mine was freeeezing!
YH says
Hi, nice post there. I visited Vientiane & Luang Prabang in 2012. Did not venture too much kind of pity. Took the sleeper bus and while u do get to sleep, it is not the most comfortable. U have to share your “bed” with another person and the “bed” is about 160cm? Not suitable for most well built westerners. They wake u up around midnight for supper (bowl of vermicelli, included in the ticket). So it was bits of 2-3 hour sleep till u reach Luang Prabang.
Silvia says
Oh wow, I was wondering if they made strangers share beds – that’s crazy! Still, it sounds slightly better than the freezing bus I took!
april says
Hi Sylvia,
I am going to Vientiane soon, planning to go to Luang Prabang as well. May I know what’s the latest time for a sleeper bus from Vientiane to LP?
Thanks 🙂
April
Gabriela says
Sylvia,
I am also planning on travelling from Vientiane to Luang Prabang in a few weeks and would like to know where you recommend reserving the sleeper bus? Or if you simply went to the station and bought the ticket with no reservation?
Thanks!
Silvia says
I bought my ticket at the station a couple of days in advance, but you might be able to buy it on the day, I’m not sure.