I'm writing this from a little burger and beer joint--one of the few places Danielle and I can seek refuge from the masses of elderly people here on packaged tours. And that's only because despite the glossy sign advertising its location, this place is pretty run down. And they ...
Archives for 2013
Khorog, We Love You
I think it's time to come clean with you guys. Some of our stories, particularly the dialogue, haven't happened exactly as we've told you. You see, since coming to Central Asia, everything has been in Russian. While Sasha and Danielle have learned quite a bit, most of our ...
Into the Wakhan Valley: An Afternoon in Afghanistan
10 am, in the Wakhan Valley, Ishkashim The border guard adjusted the gun slung across his back and reached out to take our passports. "Do you speak Russian?" he asked. "Yes, a little" "We'll keep your passports with us here, and you can pick them up when you return to ...
The Pamir Highway, Tajikistan: A Hitchhiking Adventure
Traveling through Karakul, Murghab, and Khorog on the Pamir Highway, Tajikistan "How much money will we need to bring with us to Tajikistan" I asked the always-grumpy-but-secretly-nice manager at the Osh Guest House. "$800" Um, what? That was my entire budget for ...
Wild, Wild Horses, Couldn’t Drag Us Away
Sasha and I should have known. The signs were all there, even if we didn't want to believe it of Danielle. "When are we going horseback riding?" Danielle had repeatedly asked us. "A horse trek is the only thing I really want to do in Kyrgyzstan." "Do you want to do a two ...