So I know you all must have been waiting on tenterhooks to hear if Samarkand redeemed Uzbekistan for us a little bit (of course you were). Actually, it kind of did! The sites in Samarkand are much more spread out, so we saw a few faces that didn't belong to Western tourists. ...
Archives for October 2013
Bitter in Bukhara
I'm writing this from a little burger and beer joint--one of the few places Danielle and I can seek refuge from the masses of elderly people here on packaged tours. And that's only because despite the glossy sign advertising its location, this place is pretty run down. And they ...
Khorog, We Love You
I think it's time to come clean with you guys. Some of our stories, particularly the dialogue, haven't happened exactly as we've told you. You see, since coming to Central Asia, everything has been in Russian. While Sasha and Danielle have learned quite a bit, most of our ...
Into the Wakhan Valley: An Afternoon in Afghanistan
10 am, in the Wakhan Valley, Ishkashim The border guard adjusted the gun slung across his back and reached out to take our passports. "Do you speak Russian?" he asked. "Yes, a little" "We'll keep your passports with us here, and you can pick them up when you return to ...
The Pamir Highway, Tajikistan: A Hitchhiking Adventure
Traveling through Karakul, Murghab, and Khorog on the Pamir Highway, Tajikistan "How much money will we need to bring with us to Tajikistan" I asked the always-grumpy-but-secretly-nice manager at the Osh Guest House. "$800" Um, what? That was my entire budget for ...